Club News
October 2023 Club Meeting
September 2023 Club Meeting
On 13th September the club had a demonstration by Kevin Hutson, a professional woodturner from East Sussex. His demonstrated was on how to turn a square edged lidded box with an inlaid lid, inspired by the Chinese bone china he'd seen in the V&A Museum.
Kevin started by mounting an Ash blank (75mm x &5mm x 25mm) on a faceplate ring, then trued it up & faced it off with a small bowl gouge. He then cut a recess in the base of the inlaid lid, for the jaws of the chuck, by marking the position of it with a skew chisel & then shaping the recess with a micro parting tool (see middle left photo below). Next he reversed the blank & mounted it on a Record SC1 chuck, then removed the waste material again using a small bowl gouge. To refine the shape of the handle he used a micro skew chisel to undercut the handle & a micro spindle gouge to refine the shape of the top of the lid (see middle right photo below).
Kevin then mounted the base of box, a piece of spalted Beech (130mm x 130mm x 25mm), onto a faceplate ring & marked the chucking tenon. He then cut a ‘V’ shape with the middle of this being 10mm in from the maximum diameter of the circular part of the blank, by cutting in from each side with a bigger bowl gouge, this then developed into a shallow curve. Kevin continued working in from each side until he achieved the shape & thickness required at the rim (see far right photo below). To shape the foot of the base he initially used a small bowl gouge, then refined the shape using a micro skew chisel. Kevin then blended the foot in with the concave shape of the underside of the base. He then reversed the blank, gripping the tenon in the SC1 chuck. Then working from the middle to the rim with the larger bowl gouge, he shaped the top of the base to match the curve on the underside. Next he hollowed out the inside of the base using the smaller bowl gouge, then used a circular carbide tipped tool to refine & finish off the inside of the box.
Kevin started by mounting an Ash blank (75mm x &5mm x 25mm) on a faceplate ring, then trued it up & faced it off with a small bowl gouge. He then cut a recess in the base of the inlaid lid, for the jaws of the chuck, by marking the position of it with a skew chisel & then shaping the recess with a micro parting tool (see middle left photo below). Next he reversed the blank & mounted it on a Record SC1 chuck, then removed the waste material again using a small bowl gouge. To refine the shape of the handle he used a micro skew chisel to undercut the handle & a micro spindle gouge to refine the shape of the top of the lid (see middle right photo below).
Kevin then mounted the base of box, a piece of spalted Beech (130mm x 130mm x 25mm), onto a faceplate ring & marked the chucking tenon. He then cut a ‘V’ shape with the middle of this being 10mm in from the maximum diameter of the circular part of the blank, by cutting in from each side with a bigger bowl gouge, this then developed into a shallow curve. Kevin continued working in from each side until he achieved the shape & thickness required at the rim (see far right photo below). To shape the foot of the base he initially used a small bowl gouge, then refined the shape using a micro skew chisel. Kevin then blended the foot in with the concave shape of the underside of the base. He then reversed the blank, gripping the tenon in the SC1 chuck. Then working from the middle to the rim with the larger bowl gouge, he shaped the top of the base to match the curve on the underside. Next he hollowed out the inside of the base using the smaller bowl gouge, then used a circular carbide tipped tool to refine & finish off the inside of the box.
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To start shaping the lid, Kevin mounted another piece of spalted Beech (130mm x 130mm x 25mm) on a faceplate ring & shaped the underside, working from the middle to the rim with the larger bowl gouge, leaving the diameter required to fit the lid to the base. Having shaped the spigot to fit inside the base, the shape is refined by offering up the base until the required fit is achieved. Next Kevin cut the recess required to reverse the blank, as before, then shaped the middle of the recess & added a convex dome shape for decorative purposes. Having remounted the blank, he then repeated the hollowing process used for the underside of the base, until the required shape & thickness at the rim was achieved. He then faced off the top of the lid until it was the correct width for the handle insert. Kevin then created the recess for the handle insert, initially using a parting tool, then removed the bulk of the timber with the small bowl gouge. He then used a skew chisel to flatten the base of the recess & get it to the correct depth for the handle insert to fit. Kevin would then use blue PVA to glue the handle insert into the lid.
The finished square edged lidded box with inlaid handle was an impressive piece of turning (see below right photo) & thanks to Kevin for a very informative & interesting demonstration.
The finished square edged lidded box with inlaid handle was an impressive piece of turning (see below right photo) & thanks to Kevin for a very informative & interesting demonstration.
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Our next session on 11th October is a Club Night, which is a session for club members. This is where our more experienced turners will provide a range of opportunities for the less experienced members, so they can pick up tips on a number of aspects of wood turning.
It's your session, so please pass on any suggestions of what you'd like input on to one of the members of the committee.
It's your session, so please pass on any suggestions of what you'd like input on to one of the members of the committee.
July 2023 Club Meeting
On Wednesday 9th August the club held one of it's Members Self Help Club Nights. Leading the activities were Terry Guilding on long handled hollowing, Terry Sparks on Sharpening & Val on turning a vase & using the Simon Hope camera system. Vicki Prouse also brought along an impressive hollow form vessel that she has created this year. A big thank you to all three for sharing their expertise.
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Next month we have Kevin Hutson, a professional woodturner from East Sussex, joining us on 13-9-23.
June 2023 Club Meeting
On 14th June we hosted our second Self Help session of the year where some of the more experienced members shared their knowledge with those members who are relatively new to wood turning. On the menu were the topics of Green Bowl Turning with Terry Guilding, Sharpening with Terry Sparks, Pen Turning with Graham Tucker, Lace Bobbin turning with Val Venning & Using the Skew Chisel with Pete Whitfield. The format of the evening enabled members to visit as many of the 'workshops' as they wanted to, asking questions, trying out tools & equipment they were thinking of getting & having a go if they were so inclined.
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Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 12th July, when Jason Breach a professional woodturner from Axminster Tools, will be returning to give another demonstration.
May 2023 Club Meeting
On 10th May we welcomed Stephen Long from Woodbury Woodturning Club who gave us a demonstration on how to turn a three legged bowl.
Stephen used a Cherry bowl blank 200 x 70mm, which had been marked out with a pair of compasses & cut on a bandsaw to create a triangular shape with curved sides (see photo below left).
He then mounted it on a worm screw & cut tenon to fit a set of O’Donnell jaws, marking the centre for use later. As it is an intermittent cut, a high speed is recommended. He then hollowed out the underneath of the bowl to create the three feet, using a bowl gouge with a traditional grind.
Stephen then remounted the blank in the O’Donnell jaws & shaped the outside of the bowl & then hollowed out the inside of the bowl, again using the bowl gouge with a traditional grind. To check the depth of the bowl he used a depth gauge - see upper middle photo below. He then used a round scraper to refine the inside of the bowl using a fine shear cut.
Next he remounted it between a dome (see lower middle photo below)) mounted in the O’Donnell jaws, with a paper towel in between, acting as a friction drive & a revolving tail centre held in the tail stock ( located in the centre marked earlier). Taking great care not to come into contact with the three legs, Stephen then shaped the bottom of the bowl to blend into the shape he had hollowed out earlier, leaving a supporting nib to be removed once the bowl is removed from the lathe. Finally he finished off by shear scraping, with a round scraper, to refine the underneath of the bowl. The resulting bowl was very impressive - see right hand photo below.
Stephen used a Cherry bowl blank 200 x 70mm, which had been marked out with a pair of compasses & cut on a bandsaw to create a triangular shape with curved sides (see photo below left).
He then mounted it on a worm screw & cut tenon to fit a set of O’Donnell jaws, marking the centre for use later. As it is an intermittent cut, a high speed is recommended. He then hollowed out the underneath of the bowl to create the three feet, using a bowl gouge with a traditional grind.
Stephen then remounted the blank in the O’Donnell jaws & shaped the outside of the bowl & then hollowed out the inside of the bowl, again using the bowl gouge with a traditional grind. To check the depth of the bowl he used a depth gauge - see upper middle photo below. He then used a round scraper to refine the inside of the bowl using a fine shear cut.
Next he remounted it between a dome (see lower middle photo below)) mounted in the O’Donnell jaws, with a paper towel in between, acting as a friction drive & a revolving tail centre held in the tail stock ( located in the centre marked earlier). Taking great care not to come into contact with the three legs, Stephen then shaped the bottom of the bowl to blend into the shape he had hollowed out earlier, leaving a supporting nib to be removed once the bowl is removed from the lathe. Finally he finished off by shear scraping, with a round scraper, to refine the underneath of the bowl. The resulting bowl was very impressive - see right hand photo below.
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After the tea break Stephen demonstrated how to make a pizza cutter. He started by cutting an 8mm hole in the centre of a thin disc of Beech just over 100mm in diameter, which he added masking tape. He then hot glued the masking tape to a jig held in the chuck jaws with an 8mm dowel in the centre (see left & centre left photos below). Next he trimmed the disc down to 100mm diameter, before marking the centre line on the edge. He then curved the outer half of the disc to this centreline & faced off the inner half to the 8mm hole, before sanding down to 400 grit. Stephen then finished the first side with food safe oil, then pulled the disc off the masking tape, before chiselling off the hot glue. He then repeated the same process for the other side to complete the blade (see middlle photo below).
Stephen then mounted a piece of Pear, 200mm x 40mm, between a 4 prong drive & a revolving tail centre. He then used a spindle roughing gouge to round off the blank for the handle & a parting tool to face off the ends. He then used a parting tool & a pair of callipers to set the depth for the section of the handle that holds the blade, before reducing the diameter of this section using a spindle roughing gouge. He then changed the 4 prong drive for a smaller diameter Steb centre & again used a parting tool & a pair of callipers to set the depth for the section of the handle that is held, before reducing the diameter of this section by again using a spindle roughing gouge. He then shaped this part of the handle using a spindle gouge, before adding some decoration with a homemade ‘beading’ tool. The handle was then sanded in the same way as the cutting disc had been. The nib where the tail stock had been was then sawn away & the end hand sanded. The handle was then put in a pair of ‘V’ blocks, which was then held in a vice to make two cuts the width of the blade apart. A coping saw was then used to remove the waste material, & then homemade sanding boards are used to clean up the slot (see right centre photo below). Next the hole to connect the blade to the handle is marked out, before putting the handle in a ‘V’ block & drilling nearly all the way through, & then drilling back through from the other side. Finally the pizza cutter is assembled & the pin glued in place (see right hand photo below).
Stephen then mounted a piece of Pear, 200mm x 40mm, between a 4 prong drive & a revolving tail centre. He then used a spindle roughing gouge to round off the blank for the handle & a parting tool to face off the ends. He then used a parting tool & a pair of callipers to set the depth for the section of the handle that holds the blade, before reducing the diameter of this section using a spindle roughing gouge. He then changed the 4 prong drive for a smaller diameter Steb centre & again used a parting tool & a pair of callipers to set the depth for the section of the handle that is held, before reducing the diameter of this section by again using a spindle roughing gouge. He then shaped this part of the handle using a spindle gouge, before adding some decoration with a homemade ‘beading’ tool. The handle was then sanded in the same way as the cutting disc had been. The nib where the tail stock had been was then sawn away & the end hand sanded. The handle was then put in a pair of ‘V’ blocks, which was then held in a vice to make two cuts the width of the blade apart. A coping saw was then used to remove the waste material, & then homemade sanding boards are used to clean up the slot (see right centre photo below). Next the hole to connect the blade to the handle is marked out, before putting the handle in a ‘V’ block & drilling nearly all the way through, & then drilling back through from the other side. Finally the pizza cutter is assembled & the pin glued in place (see right hand photo below).
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Our next session is on 8th June is a Club Night, which is a session for club members, where our more experienced turners will provide a range of opportunities for the less experienced members, so they can pick up tips on a number of aspects of wood turning. It's your session, so pass on any suggestions of what you'd like input on to one of the members of the committee.
April 2023 Club Meeting
On Wednesday 12th April the club welcomed Tony Wingrave from Plymouth Woodturning Club who gave us a demonstration on how to turn a Lace Bobbin, and then in the second part of the evening he showed us how to produced one of his famous Hedgehogs.
A good evening was had by all, thank you Tony.
Next month on 10th May, we have a demonstration by Stephen Long from Woodbury Woodturning Club.
A good evening was had by all, thank you Tony.
Next month on 10th May, we have a demonstration by Stephen Long from Woodbury Woodturning Club.
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March 2023 Club Meeting
On Wednesday 8th March the club welcomed back Mark Beckett from North Cornwall who gave us a demonstration on how to turn a Bee Hive Bowl.
Mark started with the spalted 'beech' blank (8” x 4”) mounted in a worm screw held in the chuck jaws. He then used a bowl gouge to roughly shaped the outside of the bowl, before shaping the tenon chucking point with a skew chisel. Mark then refined the outside shape of the bowl using fine finishing cuts, using a smaller, newly sharpened bowl gouge, finishing with a number of shear cuts - pulled towards himself. Next he sanded the outside of the bowl using an angle drill with a 180 grit disc, before applying two coats of 60:40 sanding sealer. Once the sanding sealer was dry, a layer of True Grit was applied & then buffed at 350-400 rpm with a piece of paper towel for 3 minutes, to continue to prepare the surface of the blank. At this point a finish of your choice can be applied.
To shape the rolling beads, Mark used a spindle gouge, then lightly sanded the beads to refine their shape.
Mark started with the spalted 'beech' blank (8” x 4”) mounted in a worm screw held in the chuck jaws. He then used a bowl gouge to roughly shaped the outside of the bowl, before shaping the tenon chucking point with a skew chisel. Mark then refined the outside shape of the bowl using fine finishing cuts, using a smaller, newly sharpened bowl gouge, finishing with a number of shear cuts - pulled towards himself. Next he sanded the outside of the bowl using an angle drill with a 180 grit disc, before applying two coats of 60:40 sanding sealer. Once the sanding sealer was dry, a layer of True Grit was applied & then buffed at 350-400 rpm with a piece of paper towel for 3 minutes, to continue to prepare the surface of the blank. At this point a finish of your choice can be applied.
To shape the rolling beads, Mark used a spindle gouge, then lightly sanded the beads to refine their shape.
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After the drinks break, Mark remounted the blank in the chuck using the tenon & hollowed out the middle of the bowl with a bowl gouge with his standard long grind (see above left photo). He then switched to a bowl gouge with a 60 degree English grind (see above middle right photo) to refine & finish the inside of the bowl. He then faced off the rim, before repeating the same preparation & finishing processes as he had on the outside, with a final coat of Wood Wax 22 polish, followed by a coat of microcrystalline wax.
To remove the tenon, Mark mounted a foam mat covered block in the chuck (see middle two photos below), supported by the tailstock. He then used pull cuts with a spindle gouge to remove the bulk of the tenon, then finished with push cuts until the nub detached.
To remove the tenon, Mark mounted a foam mat covered block in the chuck (see middle two photos below), supported by the tailstock. He then used pull cuts with a spindle gouge to remove the bulk of the tenon, then finished with push cuts until the nub detached.
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Thank you to Mark for another interesting demonstration, with lots of top tips for us to take away to improve our turning.
Next month on 12th April, we have Tony Wingrave from Plymouth Woodturning Club who is giving a demonstration on turning Lace Bobbins.
Next month on 12th April, we have Tony Wingrave from Plymouth Woodturning Club who is giving a demonstration on turning Lace Bobbins.
Post Christmas Meal
A good time was had by all :)
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February 2023 Club Meeting
The club’s February demonstration was by Mark Beckett, a professional turner from Bude, who gave a demonstration of turning a decorative bowl & applying a range of finishes & colouring techniques.
Having mounted a 10” x 2” Sycamore bowl blank on a worm screw, he used a bowl gouge to level up the side of the blank, before facing off the base using a pull stroke. Next Mark started to rough out the shape of the outside of the bowl, again using a bowl gouge & a pull cut. He then used a Speed Sizer & a pair of callipers to mark the size of the mortice, which he hollowed out with a spindle gouge, before dishing the base of the bowl & adding some decoration to the inside of the mortice. Mark then created an ogee shape on the outside of the bowl, & then he switched to a freshly sharpened bowl gouge for the finishing cut & finally a shear cut. He sanded the underside of the bowl using 120, 240 & 320 grit abrasives. Mark talked through the process of ‘water popping’ in which prior to using each grade of abrasive, the surface to be sanded is lightly sprayed with water to lift the grain, thus achieving a much smoother finish.
He then applied a coat of cellulose sanding sealer of a 70:30 mix to the underside of the bowl, once this was dry he applied some True Grit abrasive/wax & with a paper towel he cut back the sanding sealer & started to polish the underside of the bowl. Mark then applied a coat of Hampshire Sheen microcrystalline wax, which he buffed up with a paper towel, then repeated this process to apply a second coat.
Mark then remounted the blank in a set of Axminster ‘C’ jaws & faced off the other side, again using a bowl gouge & a pull cut. Then he used a fine push cut to finish the rim of the bowl.
Having mounted a 10” x 2” Sycamore bowl blank on a worm screw, he used a bowl gouge to level up the side of the blank, before facing off the base using a pull stroke. Next Mark started to rough out the shape of the outside of the bowl, again using a bowl gouge & a pull cut. He then used a Speed Sizer & a pair of callipers to mark the size of the mortice, which he hollowed out with a spindle gouge, before dishing the base of the bowl & adding some decoration to the inside of the mortice. Mark then created an ogee shape on the outside of the bowl, & then he switched to a freshly sharpened bowl gouge for the finishing cut & finally a shear cut. He sanded the underside of the bowl using 120, 240 & 320 grit abrasives. Mark talked through the process of ‘water popping’ in which prior to using each grade of abrasive, the surface to be sanded is lightly sprayed with water to lift the grain, thus achieving a much smoother finish.
He then applied a coat of cellulose sanding sealer of a 70:30 mix to the underside of the bowl, once this was dry he applied some True Grit abrasive/wax & with a paper towel he cut back the sanding sealer & started to polish the underside of the bowl. Mark then applied a coat of Hampshire Sheen microcrystalline wax, which he buffed up with a paper towel, then repeated this process to apply a second coat.
Mark then remounted the blank in a set of Axminster ‘C’ jaws & faced off the other side, again using a bowl gouge & a pull cut. Then he used a fine push cut to finish the rim of the bowl.
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After the drinks break Mark used a negative rake scraper to refine the finish of the rim of the bowl. When doing this he used one hand on the base of the bowl to apply the same pressure as he was applying with the scraper, to get a finer finish.
To start the colouring process Mark applied a coat of black Chestnut Ebonising Lacquer, which he then used a heat gun from 2’ to dry the lacquer. He then applied 3 colours of Chestnut Rainbow Wax (see below middle left photo) to one half of the bowl, wearing protective gloves, by rubbing each colour onto the ebonised surface, wiping each colour off the gloves once each colour was finished with. To finally he used a paper towel to buff up the Rainbow Wax. On the other half of the bowl Mark used Joe Sonya’s iridescent paint (see below middle right photo), dabbed on with a paper towel, which he again used a heat gun from 2’ to dry the paint, to create an alternative colouring effect. Mark finds the items in the left hand photo below very useful when mixing & applying paint - get them where you can!!!
Mark then used a bowl gouge to hollow out the middle of the bowl using a series of push cuts. He then used his Makita angle drill with Simon Hope sanding discs, working through the grits to sand the centre of the bowl. To finish he applied a coat of sanding sealer, which he denibbed with a piece of paper towel (600 grit!), then applied some microcrystalline wax & buffed it up with a paper towel.
He then used a skew chisel to add two decorative rings in the centre of the rim & one ring on the edge of the rim (see below right photo).
To start the colouring process Mark applied a coat of black Chestnut Ebonising Lacquer, which he then used a heat gun from 2’ to dry the lacquer. He then applied 3 colours of Chestnut Rainbow Wax (see below middle left photo) to one half of the bowl, wearing protective gloves, by rubbing each colour onto the ebonised surface, wiping each colour off the gloves once each colour was finished with. To finally he used a paper towel to buff up the Rainbow Wax. On the other half of the bowl Mark used Joe Sonya’s iridescent paint (see below middle right photo), dabbed on with a paper towel, which he again used a heat gun from 2’ to dry the paint, to create an alternative colouring effect. Mark finds the items in the left hand photo below very useful when mixing & applying paint - get them where you can!!!
Mark then used a bowl gouge to hollow out the middle of the bowl using a series of push cuts. He then used his Makita angle drill with Simon Hope sanding discs, working through the grits to sand the centre of the bowl. To finish he applied a coat of sanding sealer, which he denibbed with a piece of paper towel (600 grit!), then applied some microcrystalline wax & buffed it up with a paper towel.
He then used a skew chisel to add two decorative rings in the centre of the rim & one ring on the edge of the rim (see below right photo).
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Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 8th March, when Mark Beckett a professional woodturner from North Cornwall, will be returning to give another demonstration.
January 2023 Club Meeting
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On 11th January we hosted the first of our Self Help sessions where some of the more experienced members shared their knowledge with those members who are relatively new to wood turning. On the menu were the topics of Bowl Turning with Terry Sparks, Sharpening with Graham Tucker, there were also a range of Texturing tools available for members to experiment with. The format of the evening enabled members to visit as many of the 'workshops' as they wanted to, asking questions, trying out tools & equipment they were thinking of getting & having a go if they were so inclined.
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A big thank you to all those members who led the evening's sessions & to all those members who enthusiastically absorbed their pearls of wisdom, the feedback from everyone was very positive. Our next Self Help Club Night is on 8th March, we've already had a request for a Skew Chisel input, so let a member of the committee know what else you'd like put on & then we can get it organised for you.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 8th February, by Mark Beckett a professional woodturner from North Cornwall.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 8th February, by Mark Beckett a professional woodturner from North Cornwall.
December 2022 Club Meeting
On 14th December the club welcomed John Rockey professional woodturner who gave a Colouring & Texturing demonstration.
Initially he turned a rice bowl & lid, after the tea break he textured the lid, then sprayed it black, before colouring it. This was a very informative evening, with plenty to take away & have a go at.
Initially he turned a rice bowl & lid, after the tea break he textured the lid, then sprayed it black, before colouring it. This was a very informative evening, with plenty to take away & have a go at.
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We kick off 2023 on 11th January with a Club Night, which is a session for club members, where our more experienced turners will provide a range of opportunities for the less experienced members, so they can pick up tips on a number of aspects of wood turning. It's your session, so pass on any suggestions of what you'd like input on to one of the members of the committee.
September 2022 Club Meeting
On 14th September the demonstration was provided by our very own Chairman Val Venning, who showed us how to turn a square edged bowl.
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Simon Le Page brought along a homemade steady that he'd made largely from plywood & wheels from inline skates - see below.
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May 2022 Club Meeting
On 11th May the club welcomed Eric Anning, who had made it his mission to enlighten us to ‘The Way of the Skew Chisel’. To aid his demonstration Eric had painted his workpiece black, so that it was easier for us to see the cuts he was making, which was a very effective technique.
In addition to clarifying the correct way to use the skew chisel, Eric did the same with the parting tool & spindle roughing gouge, in respect of spindle turning.
During the course of his demonstration Eric covered the angles which the skew chisel is presented to the workpiece, the use of the long & short points, square cuts, planing cuts, the shape & grind angles, cutting coves & beads.
In addition to clarifying the correct way to use the skew chisel, Eric did the same with the parting tool & spindle roughing gouge, in respect of spindle turning.
During the course of his demonstration Eric covered the angles which the skew chisel is presented to the workpiece, the use of the long & short points, square cuts, planing cuts, the shape & grind angles, cutting coves & beads.
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After the tea break Eric covered batch turning including the use of measuring rods to mark out the sizes along the length of the spindle & external callipers to achieve the correct diameters at the key points of the spindle.
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By the end of the evening we were all much wiser on all aspects of using the Skew chisel as a result of Eric’s very informative demonstration.
Next month we have Adrian Jacobs from Woodbury Woodturning Club.
Next month we have Adrian Jacobs from Woodbury Woodturning Club.
March 2022 Club Meeting
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On 9th March we hosted the first of our Self Help sessions where some of the more experienced members shared their knowledge with those members who are relatively new to wood turning. On the menu were the topics of Deep Hollowing with Val Venning, Sharpening with Terry Sparks, Texturing with Vick Prouse , Polishing with Les Cox & Spindle Turning with Pete Swain. The format of the evening enabled members to visit as many of the 'workshops' as they wanted to, asking questions, trying out tools & equipment they were thinking of getting & having a go if they were so inclined.
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A big thank you to all those members who led the evening's sessions & to all those members who enthusiastically absorbed their pearls of wisdom, the feedback from everyone was very positive. Our next Self Help Club Night is in September, so let Pete Whitfield know what you'd like put on & then he can get it organised for you.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 13th April, by Kevin Hutson a professional woodturner from East Sussex who will be showing us how to turn chess pieces.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 13th April, by Kevin Hutson a professional woodturner from East Sussex who will be showing us how to turn chess pieces.
February 2022 Club Meeting
On 9th February the club welcomed John Montgomery, the AWGB’s South West Representative.
John demonstrated how to turn a square rimmed lidded bowl, from a piece of Beech from John Bradford’s. The blank was initially mounted on a screw chuck with a plywood spacer (see photo below left), supported by the tailstock, to shape the foot & outside of the bowl using a bowl gouge with a long grind - leaving the square rim. The blank was then remounted in the chuck to face off the top & then hollow out the inside of the bowl, having first removed the tailstock, initially with the long grind bowl gouge. To shape the bottom of the inside of the bowl, John switched to a short grind bowl gouge. To finish the inside a negative rake round scraper was used. Then John cut the rebate for the lid with a parting tool, & then cleaned the rebate up with a skew chisel. Finally John remounted the bowl in the chuck, holding it by the rebate, supported by the tailstock. He then refined the outside of the bowl, removed the chucking point & reshaped the base of the bowl.
For sanding John recommended using a foam pad with a hook & loop fixing to the sandpaper, to protect your fingers & avoid lumps & bumps (see photo below right).
John demonstrated how to turn a square rimmed lidded bowl, from a piece of Beech from John Bradford’s. The blank was initially mounted on a screw chuck with a plywood spacer (see photo below left), supported by the tailstock, to shape the foot & outside of the bowl using a bowl gouge with a long grind - leaving the square rim. The blank was then remounted in the chuck to face off the top & then hollow out the inside of the bowl, having first removed the tailstock, initially with the long grind bowl gouge. To shape the bottom of the inside of the bowl, John switched to a short grind bowl gouge. To finish the inside a negative rake round scraper was used. Then John cut the rebate for the lid with a parting tool, & then cleaned the rebate up with a skew chisel. Finally John remounted the bowl in the chuck, holding it by the rebate, supported by the tailstock. He then refined the outside of the bowl, removed the chucking point & reshaped the base of the bowl.
For sanding John recommended using a foam pad with a hook & loop fixing to the sandpaper, to protect your fingers & avoid lumps & bumps (see photo below right).
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The lid was made from a piece of Yew, initially mounted against the jaws of the chuck, supported by the tailstock. John then rounded off the blank, before facing off the base with a bowl gouge. He then created a tenon chucking point, which he finished with a skew chisel, to fit a large set of O’Donnell jaws. Having mounted the blank in the chuck, John shaped the outside of the lid & fitted it to the bowl with a bowl gouge, this included a chucking point & a knob. John then sanded down through the grits to 600.
Next John used Henry Taylor & Simon Hope texturing tools (see photo below left) to add some surface decoration to the outside of the lid, & then applied a coat of 50/50 sanding sealer & thinners. John then rubbed some Liberon Verdigris special effects wax into the texturing marks, before removing the excess with Lemon oil on a cloth. Finally John reversed the lid & removed the chucking point from the base of the lid, before sanding, texturing, sealing & colouring it with antique brass Chorma gilt, removing the surplus gilt with Lemon Oil on a cloth.
Next John used Henry Taylor & Simon Hope texturing tools (see photo below left) to add some surface decoration to the outside of the lid, & then applied a coat of 50/50 sanding sealer & thinners. John then rubbed some Liberon Verdigris special effects wax into the texturing marks, before removing the excess with Lemon oil on a cloth. Finally John reversed the lid & removed the chucking point from the base of the lid, before sanding, texturing, sealing & colouring it with antique brass Chorma gilt, removing the surplus gilt with Lemon Oil on a cloth.
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Thanks to John for entertaining & interesting demonstration, with loads of techniques & processes packed into creation of a lidded bowl.
Next month we have a Self Help Club Night where members can get hands on experience of a range of processes, tools & equipment.
Next month we have a Self Help Club Night where members can get hands on experience of a range of processes, tools & equipment.
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January 2022 Club Meeting
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The Club’s January meeting began with the AGM & a massive thank you to all those members who volunteered to take on responsibilities & form the Club’s committee, without you the Club would cease to exist.
Following the AGM Tony Wingrave from Plymouth Woodturning Club gave a demonstration of off-centre turning. The accompanying photos show the bird with an adjustable head that Tony turned on the night, along with an Axminster carbide tipped bit, which Tony recommended. Also shown is a hedgehog, which Tony also makes using off-centred turning, and a pair of Dewalt fingerless gloves - ideal for a cold workshop! The Club will be having a number of self-help evenings over the course of the year. At these sessions some of the more experienced members put on demonstrations/workshops for the less experienced members. In order to organise the demonstrations/workshops it is essential for the less experienced members to let us know what aspects of woodturning you would like included. Our next meeting is on 9th February which will be our first Self Help session - so it's over to you, what would you like us to put on? |
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March Club Meeting.
On Wednesday 11th March the club welcomed Roger Gubbin from Cornwall who gave a demonstration on how to turn a lidded pot from a piece of Ash.
Roger started with the blank in a spindle orientation, mounted between a pair of ring centres, he then used a spindle roughing gouge to create a cylinder, then squared off the tail stock end & shaped a chucking point (to suit a set Axminster ‘A’ jaws) with a parting tool.
He then remounted the blank in the chuck, & then faced off the end with a bowl gouge. Next Roger reduced the diameter on the end section down to that required for the lid, before sanding it. He then parted off the lid.
Roger started with the blank in a spindle orientation, mounted between a pair of ring centres, he then used a spindle roughing gouge to create a cylinder, then squared off the tail stock end & shaped a chucking point (to suit a set Axminster ‘A’ jaws) with a parting tool.
He then remounted the blank in the chuck, & then faced off the end with a bowl gouge. Next Roger reduced the diameter on the end section down to that required for the lid, before sanding it. He then parted off the lid.
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Roger then started to hollow out the inside of the vessel using a drill bit in a Jacob’s chuck. A better method of hollowing out is to use a hand held long but narrow drill bit, as this reduces the build up of heat in the timber (see above left photo). He then used a variety of specialist hollowing tools to work his way down into the bottom of the inside of the vessel (see above right photo).
He then cut a shoulder to fit the lid into, using a parting tool (see below left photo). Roger then used the shoulder of the vessel as a jam chuck to face off & sand the inside of the lid.
He then cut a shoulder to fit the lid into, using a parting tool (see below left photo). Roger then used the shoulder of the vessel as a jam chuck to face off & sand the inside of the lid.
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Next Roger used a bowl gouge to shape the outside of the pot (above right photo). The he used a thin parting tool to cut the grooves, spaced by the width of his standard parting tool. Then used a gas torch to lightly scorch the outside surface of the pot (see below left & middle photos).
The decorative handle on the lid was initially shaped using a scroll saw, then refined using a homemade sanding arbour. To mount the handle to the lid, Roger sanded a flat area on the bottom of the handle at the angle required. He then made a spacer & drilled a clearance hole, so that the handle & spacer could be screwed to the lid.
To finish Roger gave a quick demonstration of thread cutting on a piece of ‘plastic wood’, aka water pipe :)
Thank you once again for an entertaining evening Roger, it was great to see so many different techniques, all incorporated into one demonstration.
The decorative handle on the lid was initially shaped using a scroll saw, then refined using a homemade sanding arbour. To mount the handle to the lid, Roger sanded a flat area on the bottom of the handle at the angle required. He then made a spacer & drilled a clearance hole, so that the handle & spacer could be screwed to the lid.
To finish Roger gave a quick demonstration of thread cutting on a piece of ‘plastic wood’, aka water pipe :)
Thank you once again for an entertaining evening Roger, it was great to see so many different techniques, all incorporated into one demonstration.
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Next month, on the 8th April, our demonstration will be given by Dave Appleby a professional woodturner from Somerset.
December Club Meeting.
On Wednesday 11th December 2019 the club held it's AGM. Following reports from the Chairman, Treasurer & the Programme Co-ordinator, the committee was returned on block for the forthcoming year. Thanks to the committee for all they do for the club's membership.
Next year's calendar will have 4 'Club Nights' where the club's more experienced members will be putting on a range of activities for the less experienced members. So if there's something you would like to learn how to do/how to do it better, have a word with one of the committee members.
Following the AGM, Terry & Graham gave us an interesting insight into the bowl coring system for getting a number of bowls out of one bowl blank, during which a number of members had a go at coring out a bowl.
Anyone wanting to go to the New Year's supper on 24th January at Furzeleigh Mill needs to let Pete Swain know what you'd like to eat, by the January meeting at the latest.
Next year's calendar kicks off on 8th January with a demonstration from Alan Thomas, a professional turner from Cornwall
Next year's calendar will have 4 'Club Nights' where the club's more experienced members will be putting on a range of activities for the less experienced members. So if there's something you would like to learn how to do/how to do it better, have a word with one of the committee members.
Following the AGM, Terry & Graham gave us an interesting insight into the bowl coring system for getting a number of bowls out of one bowl blank, during which a number of members had a go at coring out a bowl.
Anyone wanting to go to the New Year's supper on 24th January at Furzeleigh Mill needs to let Pete Swain know what you'd like to eat, by the January meeting at the latest.
Next year's calendar kicks off on 8th January with a demonstration from Alan Thomas, a professional turner from Cornwall
November Club Meeting.
On the 13th of November the club welcomed Jason Breach, a professional woodturner from Axminster, who gave us a demonstration of how to turn a pagoda style box. Jason currently has a series of articles in the Woodturning magazine, focussing on making a range of box designs.
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As can be seen in the above left photo, Jason started by turning a chucking point on either end of the square sectioned blank, then separated the lid from the base by saw. He then shaped, sanded & finished the underside of the lid, held in the chuck, & removed some of the bulk from the upper side of the lid. Next Jason mounted the base in the chuck & the fitted the lid, before hollowing, sanding & finishing the inside of the box. When taking the finishing cuts on the inside of the box, Jason uses the modified square scraper (see photos below left & middle left), which he grinds on the side, as well as the end. He also rounds the corner between these two ground faces, & adds a negative rake grind to the top of the tool. He also recommends removing the burr from the grinder with a diamond card to achieve a sharper cutting edge. Jason then shaped, sanded & finished the outside of the box. He then used the base as jam chuck to shape, finish & sand the lid, as can be seen in the above middle left photo. To shape the underside of the base, Jason made a jam chuck to hold the base section, which was also used to hold it when sanding & finishing the base. To finish the box, Jason used a system of polishing mops with compounds & waxes to achieve a high gloss finish (see above middle right & right photos). This is also much safer when polishing square shaped products.
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Jason provided a stunning display of boxes, as can be seen in the photos above right & right middle. A great demonstration, thanks Jason, I recon there might be a few boxes in Christmas stockings around Devon this year as a result of your demo :)
The last meeting of the year will be on 11th December , starting with the AGM to elect the committee for the next year, followed by a demonstration by one of the Club's more experienced members, & with a seasonal tea break!!!
The last meeting of the year will be on 11th December , starting with the AGM to elect the committee for the next year, followed by a demonstration by one of the Club's more experienced members, & with a seasonal tea break!!!
October Club Meeting.
On the 9th of October the club welcomed Colin Simpson, a professional woodturner from North Devon, gave us a demonstration of how to turn a flask. This involves both spindle & 'faceplate' turning on the same project.
Initially the work piece is mounted in spindle orientation, between centres, and the chucking point, base, sides & neck of the flask are shaped. The base, sides & neck are then sanded & finished. The work piece is then remounted in the chuck & the tail stock removed, to enable the inside of the neck to be 'drilled' down into the middle of the body of the flask. Then this hole is then shaped & flared out towards the opening at the end of the neck.
The work piece was then remounted in 'faceplate' orientation, using pressure from the revolving tail centre against the jaws of the chuck. As this is essentially a friction chuck, small cuts were then taken to shape the chucking point & slightly curve the back of the flask. The work piece was then remounted in a set of O'Donnell jaws (see left & middle photos below). The middle of the flask was then hollowed, in the same way as you would remove the material from the inside of a bowl. Once the hollowing revealed the hole from the neck, the shape of the inside of the flask could be refined, including a recess into which the contrasting piece of timber for the bung could be glued. The work piece was then remounted by gripping the recess for the bung, so that the chucking point on the back of the flask could be removed. The back of the flask was then shaped, sanded & finished.
The contrasting piece of timber for the bung was mounted in the chuck & turned to fit the recess. It was then superglued into place, using pressure from the tailstock, against a concave friction dolly held in the chuck. With the work piece held between the revolving tail centre & the concave friction dolly, small cuts were then taken to shape the front of the flask, blending in the decorative bung. Before sanding & finishing, all but the spigot supporting the revolving tail centre. The flask was then removed from the lathe & the spigot removed, sanded & finished.
The stopper would usually be turned, spindle style, using the same contrasting timber as the bung (see photo below right).
Thanks to Colin for a fascinating demonstration & setting us a nice challenge for our turning skills!!!
Initially the work piece is mounted in spindle orientation, between centres, and the chucking point, base, sides & neck of the flask are shaped. The base, sides & neck are then sanded & finished. The work piece is then remounted in the chuck & the tail stock removed, to enable the inside of the neck to be 'drilled' down into the middle of the body of the flask. Then this hole is then shaped & flared out towards the opening at the end of the neck.
The work piece was then remounted in 'faceplate' orientation, using pressure from the revolving tail centre against the jaws of the chuck. As this is essentially a friction chuck, small cuts were then taken to shape the chucking point & slightly curve the back of the flask. The work piece was then remounted in a set of O'Donnell jaws (see left & middle photos below). The middle of the flask was then hollowed, in the same way as you would remove the material from the inside of a bowl. Once the hollowing revealed the hole from the neck, the shape of the inside of the flask could be refined, including a recess into which the contrasting piece of timber for the bung could be glued. The work piece was then remounted by gripping the recess for the bung, so that the chucking point on the back of the flask could be removed. The back of the flask was then shaped, sanded & finished.
The contrasting piece of timber for the bung was mounted in the chuck & turned to fit the recess. It was then superglued into place, using pressure from the tailstock, against a concave friction dolly held in the chuck. With the work piece held between the revolving tail centre & the concave friction dolly, small cuts were then taken to shape the front of the flask, blending in the decorative bung. Before sanding & finishing, all but the spigot supporting the revolving tail centre. The flask was then removed from the lathe & the spigot removed, sanded & finished.
The stopper would usually be turned, spindle style, using the same contrasting timber as the bung (see photo below right).
Thanks to Colin for a fascinating demonstration & setting us a nice challenge for our turning skills!!!
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Next month, on the 13th November, our demonstration is from Jason Breach a professional woodturner from Axminster, who will showing us how to turn special boxes!!!
Jolly Boy's Trip to Axminster Tools.
On Wednesday 18th September 14 club members went to the Axminster skill centre where the member were meet in the car park by Ben and shown into the skill centre and the coffee machine, being told to help themselves to tea and coffee as they wished. At about 0940 we were ushered into the turning room and Colwyn Way gave a demonstration starting with what he called “a warm up”, this was spindle turning using a roughing out gouge, spindle gouge, and a selection chisels both skew and flat including an old fashion German type chisel which he has slightly modified and is now having produced under his own name (several members purchased one of these chisels).
During this warm up he covered all aspects of spindle turning including the causes of catches etc ending up with a turned stool leg. He then proceeded to turn a small bowl touching on sanding procedure and sealing coats. Next he turned a Christmas trees and flowers showing how to colour/paint using a airbrush and spirit stains. Finally he turned a snake wood bottle top opener handle which he finished off on a buffing wheel with Carnauba wax.
This was followed by a coffee break, then a tour of the warehouse and distribution system returning to the skill centre for sandwich lunch (£2.50). During the lunch break, Ben took orders from members for any items they wished to purchase.
After lunch it was a tour of the engineering factory being shown how the chucks etc were made. Finally on return to the skill centre Jason Beach and Ben showed us how to steam and bend timber for a chair and a dowel making system, finishing about 1615. After this 8 of us called into John Bradford for timber on the way home. A great day was had by all.
During this warm up he covered all aspects of spindle turning including the causes of catches etc ending up with a turned stool leg. He then proceeded to turn a small bowl touching on sanding procedure and sealing coats. Next he turned a Christmas trees and flowers showing how to colour/paint using a airbrush and spirit stains. Finally he turned a snake wood bottle top opener handle which he finished off on a buffing wheel with Carnauba wax.
This was followed by a coffee break, then a tour of the warehouse and distribution system returning to the skill centre for sandwich lunch (£2.50). During the lunch break, Ben took orders from members for any items they wished to purchase.
After lunch it was a tour of the engineering factory being shown how the chucks etc were made. Finally on return to the skill centre Jason Beach and Ben showed us how to steam and bend timber for a chair and a dowel making system, finishing about 1615. After this 8 of us called into John Bradford for timber on the way home. A great day was had by all.
September Club Meeting.
For the September meeting the club welcomed John Lawson, who gave us a demonstration on green woodturning. John directed us towards the definitive text on green woodturning (see photo below left).
John started by explaining how to use his home made jig for cutting the blank out of half a log & drilling the hole to mount it on a worm screw held in his chuck (see middle photo below). Having mounted the blank as described above, John proceeded to shape the outside of the bowl & hollow out a recess to fit a set of O'Donnell jaws, this time using another home made jig to check the size of the recess (see also middle photo below).
John started by explaining how to use his home made jig for cutting the blank out of half a log & drilling the hole to mount it on a worm screw held in his chuck (see middle photo below). Having mounted the blank as described above, John proceeded to shape the outside of the bowl & hollow out a recess to fit a set of O'Donnell jaws, this time using another home made jig to check the size of the recess (see also middle photo below).
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Unfortunately during the process of hollowing the inside of the bowl, we ended up with a couple of UFO's flying around the hall, as John's blank made a bid for freedom! However it was recaptured & a more substantial recess put on the base so that the hollowing stage could continue. When shaping the inside of the bowl, John removed approximately 1", before establishing a wall thickness of just a couple of mm. He then went in another 1", before matching the wall thickness of this section with the first. This process was repeated until the correct depth was achieved, using a bright light & the translucence of the wet timber to indicate a uniform wall thickness (see photo left below).
Having completed the inside of the bowl, John removed the chucking recess on the base with a sanding disc, and then finished as required.
John brought along an impressive selection of thin walled bowls he'd previously turned out of green wood, then left to dry out (see middle photo below), and some others that he'd experimented with spirit stain. As these turnings are made from green timber, not only do they move whilst being turned, but once finished the amount of movement in the timber can lead to some quite dramatically distorted final shapes.
Following the drinks break, John resumed his demonstration with a bit of green spindle turning, showing us how to turn a natural rimmed goblet. When selecting your billet for a goblet, it is important to have the pith off-centre, so that it can be removed in the stem section.
Having mounted the billet between a 4 prong centre & a revolving tail centre, John balanced up the billet in the section that would later become the stem.
Next he hollowed the inside of the goblet, this is best done without the tail centre in place. Once this had been completed, John recommends padding out the revolving tail centre with kitchen roll, to support the billet while shaping the outside of the goblet, stem & base. The outside of the goblet is shaped & finished in sections, from the edge of the natural rim, back towards the chuck. This ensures that the section being worked on is always supported by the bulk of the timber.
Once the base has been shaped & finished, the goblet if parted off, ensuring that the base is undercut. This increases the likelihood of the goblet sitting level, as opposed to rocking.
John also brought along an impressive selection of thin walked natural edged goblets that he'd previously turned out of green wood, then left to dry out (see photo below right).
John's top tip for when you've finished turning green timber - wipe down your lathe, chuck, tools, etc. to dry them off, so they don't corrode!
As green timber can often be picked up free of charge, this is a great way to develop you turning, for minimal cost. Thanks to John for an exciting (if you were in the front row) & entertaining (if you were in the back row) demonstration. Now all we need to do is find some freshly cut timber & have a go :)
Having completed the inside of the bowl, John removed the chucking recess on the base with a sanding disc, and then finished as required.
John brought along an impressive selection of thin walled bowls he'd previously turned out of green wood, then left to dry out (see middle photo below), and some others that he'd experimented with spirit stain. As these turnings are made from green timber, not only do they move whilst being turned, but once finished the amount of movement in the timber can lead to some quite dramatically distorted final shapes.
Following the drinks break, John resumed his demonstration with a bit of green spindle turning, showing us how to turn a natural rimmed goblet. When selecting your billet for a goblet, it is important to have the pith off-centre, so that it can be removed in the stem section.
Having mounted the billet between a 4 prong centre & a revolving tail centre, John balanced up the billet in the section that would later become the stem.
Next he hollowed the inside of the goblet, this is best done without the tail centre in place. Once this had been completed, John recommends padding out the revolving tail centre with kitchen roll, to support the billet while shaping the outside of the goblet, stem & base. The outside of the goblet is shaped & finished in sections, from the edge of the natural rim, back towards the chuck. This ensures that the section being worked on is always supported by the bulk of the timber.
Once the base has been shaped & finished, the goblet if parted off, ensuring that the base is undercut. This increases the likelihood of the goblet sitting level, as opposed to rocking.
John also brought along an impressive selection of thin walked natural edged goblets that he'd previously turned out of green wood, then left to dry out (see photo below right).
John's top tip for when you've finished turning green timber - wipe down your lathe, chuck, tools, etc. to dry them off, so they don't corrode!
As green timber can often be picked up free of charge, this is a great way to develop you turning, for minimal cost. Thanks to John for an exciting (if you were in the front row) & entertaining (if you were in the back row) demonstration. Now all we need to do is find some freshly cut timber & have a go :)
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Next month, on the 9th of October, the club welcomes Colin Simpson from North Devon. Colin is a professional woodturner & he will be giving us a demonstration on turning a flask.
July Club Meeting.
On Wednesday 10-7-19 the club welcomed Mark Sanger, a professional wood turner from Dorset, who gave a very interesting demonstration on making pots and boxes using an old German hoop turning technique. The form Mark turned was inspired by a Japanese vessel on a stand. The vessel & lid was turned from a piece of end grain olive ash (see photos below). The legs for the stand were turned using the old German hoop turning technique (see far right photo below).
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Once again an excellent demonstration, thanks Mark, I'm sure there will be a few boxes & pots turned over the coming weeks, inspired by this evening's input.
Our next session is on the 14th August, which is a Self Help Club Night, so come along & pick up a few tips from our more experienced members.
Our next session is on the 14th August, which is a Self Help Club Night, so come along & pick up a few tips from our more experienced members.
January Club Meeting
On the 9th January, the club welcomed Alan Thomas a professional woodturner from Cornwall, who provided our first demonstration of 2019.
Alan started by mounting a piece of Sapele between a crown centre & a revolving tail centre. He then used a spindle roughing gouge to transform the blank into a cylinder, with a slight taper. Alan then shaped a tenon with a parting tool, that had been sharpened so that it cuts at the same angle as the dovetail jaws in his chuck.
He then remounted the blank in the chuck, supported by the revolving centre in the tail stock. Alan then used a spindle gouge to start to shape the outside of the cup of the goblet, before hollowing out the middle of cup, with an in to out cutting action. This hollowing action is faded out as the cut nears the rim, & he ensured that the cup ended up with a uniform wall thickness.
When turning a goblet, it is essential to finish each section as you go. Alan uses sanding sealer, cut 50:50 with thinners, so the finish goes deeper into the timber. He then denibbed it with wire wool, & then moved onto a paste wax.
Next Alan finished shaping the outside of the cup with a spindle gouge, aiming to get as thin a wall thickness as he could. At the bottom of the cup, where it meets the stem, Alan adds a bead-like feature to add strength & interest to this area of the goblet. He then finished the outside of the cup as previously described using sanding sealer & paste wax.
To shape the stem, Alan removed a small amount of wood at a time, using either a spindle or bowl gouge. He the took the final cut with his specially sharpened 3mm parting tool, using it like a skew chisel, to ensure the stem was tapered. Having shaped a section of the stem, Alan then applied sanding sealer & paste wax as before.
Alan started by mounting a piece of Sapele between a crown centre & a revolving tail centre. He then used a spindle roughing gouge to transform the blank into a cylinder, with a slight taper. Alan then shaped a tenon with a parting tool, that had been sharpened so that it cuts at the same angle as the dovetail jaws in his chuck.
He then remounted the blank in the chuck, supported by the revolving centre in the tail stock. Alan then used a spindle gouge to start to shape the outside of the cup of the goblet, before hollowing out the middle of cup, with an in to out cutting action. This hollowing action is faded out as the cut nears the rim, & he ensured that the cup ended up with a uniform wall thickness.
When turning a goblet, it is essential to finish each section as you go. Alan uses sanding sealer, cut 50:50 with thinners, so the finish goes deeper into the timber. He then denibbed it with wire wool, & then moved onto a paste wax.
Next Alan finished shaping the outside of the cup with a spindle gouge, aiming to get as thin a wall thickness as he could. At the bottom of the cup, where it meets the stem, Alan adds a bead-like feature to add strength & interest to this area of the goblet. He then finished the outside of the cup as previously described using sanding sealer & paste wax.
To shape the stem, Alan removed a small amount of wood at a time, using either a spindle or bowl gouge. He the took the final cut with his specially sharpened 3mm parting tool, using it like a skew chisel, to ensure the stem was tapered. Having shaped a section of the stem, Alan then applied sanding sealer & paste wax as before.
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This process was repeated over & over again, until the majority of the shaft was complete. Alan then shaped the outside of the ring, using the modified parting tool, before sanding to achieve the final external shape of the ring. This was then finished as before. To part the ring Alan used a modified ring tool, shaped like a hook, working in from both sides until the ring is released. The inside of the ring is finished by fixing a piece of sandpaper to the stem, & then finished as before.
Alan then shaped the base of the goblet with a spindle gouge, matching the ogee shape of the cup & adding an undercut detail feature. This was then sanded & finished as previously described.
When parting the goblet off with his home made 1.5mm parting tool, Alan undercut the underside of the base, so that it won't rock if the timber changes shape (see above right photo).
Alan then repeated the initial stages, up to & including starting the stem, on a second Sapele blank. At this point he undid the chuck slightly & offset the workpiece. Using a spindle gouge he carefully cut a convex curve to create an offset stem (see LHS of both the left & middle photos above). Once this was finished, Alan put the workpiece back on centre & undercut the edge of the base, before parting off the offset goblet as before.
There was a good turnout for Alan's demostration & everyone was inspired to have a go at on or the other of these goblets, & make some modifications to some of their tools - to make them more fit for purpose - thanks Alan :)
Our next session is on the 13th February, & we have a range of workshops aimed at those members who are new to woodturning. On the menu for you to have a go at are - bowl turning, spindle turning (spinning tops), tool sharpening, pen making & a mystery session!!!
Alan then shaped the base of the goblet with a spindle gouge, matching the ogee shape of the cup & adding an undercut detail feature. This was then sanded & finished as previously described.
When parting the goblet off with his home made 1.5mm parting tool, Alan undercut the underside of the base, so that it won't rock if the timber changes shape (see above right photo).
Alan then repeated the initial stages, up to & including starting the stem, on a second Sapele blank. At this point he undid the chuck slightly & offset the workpiece. Using a spindle gouge he carefully cut a convex curve to create an offset stem (see LHS of both the left & middle photos above). Once this was finished, Alan put the workpiece back on centre & undercut the edge of the base, before parting off the offset goblet as before.
There was a good turnout for Alan's demostration & everyone was inspired to have a go at on or the other of these goblets, & make some modifications to some of their tools - to make them more fit for purpose - thanks Alan :)
Our next session is on the 13th February, & we have a range of workshops aimed at those members who are new to woodturning. On the menu for you to have a go at are - bowl turning, spindle turning (spinning tops), tool sharpening, pen making & a mystery session!!!
December Club Meeting
On Wednesday 12th December the Club welcomed back Colwin Way, from Axminster, for our last meeting of the year. The focus of his demonstration was last minutes Christmas presents.
The timber Colwin used was Redwood, which is more dense than the standard softwood available at DIY stores, & also has a nice pine scent.
Having knocked the blank down to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge, Colwin then moved onto a skew chisel. When using the skew chisel, the tool rest should set just above Centre. The grind angle that Colwin recommends for a skew chisel is 50 degrees.
Having marked out the 'bucket', he next used the spindle roughing gouge to create the cone for the tree. He then used a spindle gouge to clean up the surface of the tree, leaving a section at the top to create a small sphere. He then shaped the sphere at the top of the tree, before using a parting tool to shape a 5mm trunk section above the bucket. He then burnt a couple of rings to decorate the bucket. Next he used a parting tool to remove alternate sections moving up the tree towards the sphere at the top.
For the next Christmas tree Colwin repeated the roughing down process, then went straight to the taping of the cone of the tree, as there was to be no bucket. He then shaped the bottom of the tree/start of the trunk with a skew chisel, before marking the tree into thirds. He then continued with the skew chisel & used 'V' cuts to shape the three layers of the tree, before shaping the top to a trunk to finish.
The third project was a snowman, so having roughed the blank down m, Colwin then used a parting tool to divided the blank into three sections. He then used the spindle roughing gouge to reduce each section to the correct diameter. He then went back to the skew chisel to roll the two beads for the body & one for the head of the snowman. Next Colwin shaped the hat & added a couple of burnt rings for decoration.
Colwin then moved onto an offset piece which roughed down to a cylinder as before. He then shaped the base, as per the second tree, then shaped the cone as before with the spindle roughing gouge. Next he marked a cross on the base & moved the point of the crown centre off centre & cut 3 small 'V' cuts. He then mounted it on the opposite side of the cross & cut there more 'V' cuts, before repeating this on the other two sides of the cross. Colwin then used an airbrush to colour the 'V' cuts, before sanding off the overspray.
The timber Colwin used was Redwood, which is more dense than the standard softwood available at DIY stores, & also has a nice pine scent.
Having knocked the blank down to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge, Colwin then moved onto a skew chisel. When using the skew chisel, the tool rest should set just above Centre. The grind angle that Colwin recommends for a skew chisel is 50 degrees.
Having marked out the 'bucket', he next used the spindle roughing gouge to create the cone for the tree. He then used a spindle gouge to clean up the surface of the tree, leaving a section at the top to create a small sphere. He then shaped the sphere at the top of the tree, before using a parting tool to shape a 5mm trunk section above the bucket. He then burnt a couple of rings to decorate the bucket. Next he used a parting tool to remove alternate sections moving up the tree towards the sphere at the top.
For the next Christmas tree Colwin repeated the roughing down process, then went straight to the taping of the cone of the tree, as there was to be no bucket. He then shaped the bottom of the tree/start of the trunk with a skew chisel, before marking the tree into thirds. He then continued with the skew chisel & used 'V' cuts to shape the three layers of the tree, before shaping the top to a trunk to finish.
The third project was a snowman, so having roughed the blank down m, Colwin then used a parting tool to divided the blank into three sections. He then used the spindle roughing gouge to reduce each section to the correct diameter. He then went back to the skew chisel to roll the two beads for the body & one for the head of the snowman. Next Colwin shaped the hat & added a couple of burnt rings for decoration.
Colwin then moved onto an offset piece which roughed down to a cylinder as before. He then shaped the base, as per the second tree, then shaped the cone as before with the spindle roughing gouge. Next he marked a cross on the base & moved the point of the crown centre off centre & cut 3 small 'V' cuts. He then mounted it on the opposite side of the cross & cut there more 'V' cuts, before repeating this on the other two sides of the cross. Colwin then used an airbrush to colour the 'V' cuts, before sanding off the overspray.
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After the break for drinks & mince pies, Colwin mounted a piece of lime in a stepped 4 jaw engineering chuck. He then roughed it down to a cylinder & shaped a cone, before curling up a series of small shaving all the way from the top of the tree down to the trunk. He then used the parting tool to create the trunk & then used an airbrush to colour the tree green & the bucket red, before parting it off.
Next on the menu was a spinning top, made from a piece of sycamore. The base was shaped with a spindle gouge & the top/shaft with a small skew chisel. To finish the top was coloured using the air brush.
Colwin then moved onto making a pen, using an acrylic blank. This was roughed down to size with a spindle gouge. Then using a skew chisel as a scraper, he created the final shape. Colwin then used a series of water abbrasives, finishing on 12,000 grit, before moving onto a burnishing cream to obtain a high quality finish.
For his final piece, Colwin mounted a piece of sycamore, mounted on a screw chuck. He then used a bowl gouge to true up the side of the blank. Next Colwin faced off the blank using a drag cut, before shaping the foot & the outside of the bowl in an ogee shape. To refine the shape Colwin switched to a push cut & then shear scraped to achieve an improved quality of finish.
Having remounted the workpiece on the foot, Colwin then continued using the bowl gouge to rough the blank to the required height. He then shaped & finished the broad rim of the bowl, before adding three colours of spirit stain using the airbrush with the lathe running. He then hollowed out the centre, working from the rim to the middle of the bowl, up to the edge of the stain.
The 2019 calendar kicks off on 9th January with Alan Thomas who will be showing us how to turn a goblet with captive rings.
Next on the menu was a spinning top, made from a piece of sycamore. The base was shaped with a spindle gouge & the top/shaft with a small skew chisel. To finish the top was coloured using the air brush.
Colwin then moved onto making a pen, using an acrylic blank. This was roughed down to size with a spindle gouge. Then using a skew chisel as a scraper, he created the final shape. Colwin then used a series of water abbrasives, finishing on 12,000 grit, before moving onto a burnishing cream to obtain a high quality finish.
For his final piece, Colwin mounted a piece of sycamore, mounted on a screw chuck. He then used a bowl gouge to true up the side of the blank. Next Colwin faced off the blank using a drag cut, before shaping the foot & the outside of the bowl in an ogee shape. To refine the shape Colwin switched to a push cut & then shear scraped to achieve an improved quality of finish.
Having remounted the workpiece on the foot, Colwin then continued using the bowl gouge to rough the blank to the required height. He then shaped & finished the broad rim of the bowl, before adding three colours of spirit stain using the airbrush with the lathe running. He then hollowed out the centre, working from the rim to the middle of the bowl, up to the edge of the stain.
The 2019 calendar kicks off on 9th January with Alan Thomas who will be showing us how to turn a goblet with captive rings.
November Club Meeting - AGM
On Wednesday 14th November the club held it's AGM, please find below the minutes of the meeting & the chairman's report.
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Next month, on 12th December the club welcomes back professional woodturner Colwin Way, from Axminster.
October Club Meeting
On Wednesday 10th October the club welcomed Mark Sanger a professional woodturner from Dorset, who gave a demonstration on turning an end grain vessel from green wood to the finished form. Mark generally turns Japanese style forms, as he likes their simplicity (see below left photo).
Mark prefers to use part seasoned or wet wood, due to the increasing cost of timber. He seals the ends with Evostick PVA, then works on a shrinkage rate of 4% for end grain & 8% for cross grain & 1" per year to season. To accelerate this he sometimes uses a 850 watt microwave in 3 minutes bursts to speed up the seasoning process.
He started with the blank in end grain orientation, mounted between centres. Then used a spindle roughing gouge & a 10mm long grind bowl gouge (10 o'clock, 2 o'clock & 45 degrees) with a pull cut, to get it to the round. Next Mark used the bowl gouge to face off the end of the blank, & then to roughly shaped the tenon for the chuck. He then used a skew chisel to refine the tenon to fit a set of dovetail jaws. Next Mark used a pull cut with the bowl gouge to roughly shape the outside of the vessel & then refined it with a push cut.
Having remounted the blank in the chuck, initially still supported by the tail centre, Mark used the bowl gouge to face off the end. The tail centre was then removed to finish facing off. Next Mark used a 25mm Forstner bit to bore into the blank, to a depth of about 100mm. Mark then demonstrated a number of hollowing tools, first the hook tool, then the ring tool & finally the shielded ring tool (see below left middle photo). He then hollowed it out until it had an even thickness of about 10mm. The blank is then left to season in a brown paper bag, weighed every 2 weeks, until the weight remains the same.
To hone the edge on his tools Mark uses an MDF disc with 800 grit on the face of it & polishing compound on the edge of the MDF (see below right middle photo). He also has a 'high tech' version with a wider disc with a section of leather belt glued onto the edge & a chamois leather glued onto the face (see below right photo). Mark stated that a sharp tool should be able to scrape the surface of your nail off.
Mark prefers to use part seasoned or wet wood, due to the increasing cost of timber. He seals the ends with Evostick PVA, then works on a shrinkage rate of 4% for end grain & 8% for cross grain & 1" per year to season. To accelerate this he sometimes uses a 850 watt microwave in 3 minutes bursts to speed up the seasoning process.
He started with the blank in end grain orientation, mounted between centres. Then used a spindle roughing gouge & a 10mm long grind bowl gouge (10 o'clock, 2 o'clock & 45 degrees) with a pull cut, to get it to the round. Next Mark used the bowl gouge to face off the end of the blank, & then to roughly shaped the tenon for the chuck. He then used a skew chisel to refine the tenon to fit a set of dovetail jaws. Next Mark used a pull cut with the bowl gouge to roughly shape the outside of the vessel & then refined it with a push cut.
Having remounted the blank in the chuck, initially still supported by the tail centre, Mark used the bowl gouge to face off the end. The tail centre was then removed to finish facing off. Next Mark used a 25mm Forstner bit to bore into the blank, to a depth of about 100mm. Mark then demonstrated a number of hollowing tools, first the hook tool, then the ring tool & finally the shielded ring tool (see below left middle photo). He then hollowed it out until it had an even thickness of about 10mm. The blank is then left to season in a brown paper bag, weighed every 2 weeks, until the weight remains the same.
To hone the edge on his tools Mark uses an MDF disc with 800 grit on the face of it & polishing compound on the edge of the MDF (see below right middle photo). He also has a 'high tech' version with a wider disc with a section of leather belt glued onto the edge & a chamois leather glued onto the face (see below right photo). Mark stated that a sharp tool should be able to scrape the surface of your nail off.
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After the break Mark mounted a seasoned blank & redefined the tenon with a skew chisel. He then remounted it & trued up the outside, using small cuts, before finishing it with small cuts with a sharp tool. Next Mark trued up & finished the edge, before turning his attention to the inside of the vessel. First he used the shielded ring tool true up inside shape, then having put a burr on the round scraper with a diamond hone, he refined the inside of the bowl. To 'sand' Mark used his homemade 'Dorset Grit', before moved through 120, 180, 240, 320, 400 grit glass papers. If finishing wet wood, he recommended using Lemon Oil, as it slows down the release of the moisture in the wood.
To remove the vessel, Mark mounted the work piece between a revolving cone tail centre & a disc covered with mouse mat, used as a friction drive (see below left photo). He then shaped & finished the bottom of the bowl part of the vessel, before shaping & finishing the foot, initially with a bowl gouge before moving onto a spindle gouge. He them abraded this area as previously described. Having removed the waste wood with the spindle gouge, Mark finally mounted his sanding arbour in the chuck to sand the base. To finish the vessel he uses Rustins Danish Oil (which is food safe) or a cellulose sanding sealer, which is then buffed on a chuck mounted buffing system, & finally he applied a microcrystaline wax which was also buffed to a high gloss finish. For the inside Mark used a mushroom mop & repeated processes used on the outside (see below left middle photo).
To remove the vessel, Mark mounted the work piece between a revolving cone tail centre & a disc covered with mouse mat, used as a friction drive (see below left photo). He then shaped & finished the bottom of the bowl part of the vessel, before shaping & finishing the foot, initially with a bowl gouge before moving onto a spindle gouge. He them abraded this area as previously described. Having removed the waste wood with the spindle gouge, Mark finally mounted his sanding arbour in the chuck to sand the base. To finish the vessel he uses Rustins Danish Oil (which is food safe) or a cellulose sanding sealer, which is then buffed on a chuck mounted buffing system, & finally he applied a microcrystaline wax which was also buffed to a high gloss finish. For the inside Mark used a mushroom mop & repeated processes used on the outside (see below left middle photo).
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Once again an excellent demonstration, thanks Mark, I'm sure there will be a few pieces of green timber being experimented on over the coming weeks.
Our next session is on the 14th November, when it is our AGM & final Self Help Club Night of the year.
Our next session is on the 14th November, when it is our AGM & final Self Help Club Night of the year.
September Club Meeting.
On 12th September we had a self help club night with a range of workshops including turning bowl, tool sharpening, scroll sawing & pen making. Members were able to get advice & tuition on these aspects of woodturning & if they wanted to, have a go.
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Many thanks to Pete Swain (bowl turning), Val Venning (fret saw), Graham Tucker (pen making) & Terry Sparkes (sharpening) for putting on the sessions & to the other club members for showing such enthusiasm & interest to develop their knowledge in these areas.
Next month, on the 10th October, our demonstration is from Mark Sanger a professional woodturner from Dorset.
Next month, on the 10th October, our demonstration is from Mark Sanger a professional woodturner from Dorset.
August Club Meeting
On Wednesday 8th August the club welcomed back Adrian Jacobs 'AJ' who is a local wood turner from Woodbury. He has entertained us on previous evenings and came along to present his “Ornamental Lathe” which was a first demo of this for AJ and a first for club members. He also included one of his regular topics of inlays which he relates to his Cooking Sessions.
For those of us who know nothing about Ornamental Lathes, there is no traditional turning. It was all about providing ornamental design patterns cut into the face of finished items such as bowls or pots.
AJ’s Ornamental Lathe was a project he started some six months ago, designed and created by himself based on research from the internet, and was truly a spectacular piece of engineering. See pics 3 & 8.
The cutting edge was at the headstock end of the lathe with the timber held at the tailstock end together with a complicated series of templates and index wheels to give the patterns. Very complicated, but ingenious.
The cutters were very small milling bits, some from dental bits, some home made and others from a standard router tool.
For those of us who know nothing about Ornamental Lathes, there is no traditional turning. It was all about providing ornamental design patterns cut into the face of finished items such as bowls or pots.
AJ’s Ornamental Lathe was a project he started some six months ago, designed and created by himself based on research from the internet, and was truly a spectacular piece of engineering. See pics 3 & 8.
The cutting edge was at the headstock end of the lathe with the timber held at the tailstock end together with a complicated series of templates and index wheels to give the patterns. Very complicated, but ingenious.
The cutters were very small milling bits, some from dental bits, some home made and others from a standard router tool.
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The patterns to make the rosettes and other designs were based on information again acquired from the internet and improved using CAD design. The final pattern was in the form of several Perspex discs-pic 3. One of the patterns was based on a child’s toy to produce a Spirograph design.
After completing the pattern on the finished turned piece, the design was enhanced by filling the pattern with coloured beeswax. There are various pics showing these patterns, some with and some without the enhancement. Pics 1,2,5,6 & 7.
The other part of the Demo related to providing an inlay onto a part turned bowl, which AJ had prepared at home. With the bowl in the traditional lathe, a thin groove was cut around the perimeter with a parting tool, 5-6 mm deep and cut to form a tenon joint.
The inlay used was a mixture of Polyester resin such as Halfords 2 part Isopon Resin and then coloured with basic powder paints. The character of the inlay was enhanced by mixing in “tapioca” which was ground down in a coffee grinder to give a required particle size. The liquid mixture was poured into the groove and left to set. A short while later when the inlay had set hard, the bowl was returned to the lathe and the excess resin was turned off—very hard and the bowl gouge was soon blunted.
Pic 9 shows the top of the bowl with the finished inlay.
A thoroughly enjoyable evening giving us new ideas to try.
After completing the pattern on the finished turned piece, the design was enhanced by filling the pattern with coloured beeswax. There are various pics showing these patterns, some with and some without the enhancement. Pics 1,2,5,6 & 7.
The other part of the Demo related to providing an inlay onto a part turned bowl, which AJ had prepared at home. With the bowl in the traditional lathe, a thin groove was cut around the perimeter with a parting tool, 5-6 mm deep and cut to form a tenon joint.
The inlay used was a mixture of Polyester resin such as Halfords 2 part Isopon Resin and then coloured with basic powder paints. The character of the inlay was enhanced by mixing in “tapioca” which was ground down in a coffee grinder to give a required particle size. The liquid mixture was poured into the groove and left to set. A short while later when the inlay had set hard, the bowl was returned to the lathe and the excess resin was turned off—very hard and the bowl gouge was soon blunted.
Pic 9 shows the top of the bowl with the finished inlay.
A thoroughly enjoyable evening giving us new ideas to try.
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Thank you Adrian for a very interesting demonstration, you have certainly opened our eyes to another aspect of woodturning.
Our next session is on the 12th September, & we have a range of workshops you can get involved - turning bowl, texturing, scroll sawing & pen making.
Our next session is on the 12th September, & we have a range of workshops you can get involved - turning bowl, texturing, scroll sawing & pen making.
July Club Meeting
On Wednesday 11th July Bob Brinkworth from Plymouth Woodturners provided a demonstration of turning a goblet with a captive ring.
Bob started by mounting a blank of walnut between a 4 prong drive centre & a revolving tail centre to rough out the blank to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge. He then cut a tenon on one end with a parting tool, to fit the chuck.
Having remounted it in the chuck Bob then used a Simon Hope straight hollowing tool to remove the wood to create the inside of the bowl section. Next he used a 3/8" spindle gouge to shape the outside of the bowl, before moving onto a 1/4" spindle gouge to shape the transition to the stem.
To start creating the stem & ring, Bob used a parting tool to get the rough shape. He then used a ring tool to refine the shape of the ring, by scraping with the tool held at a downward angle, working in from both sides, until it is cut away from the stem. To sand the inside of the ring, Bob attaches a piece of glass paper around the stem, using a couple of elastic bands to hold it in place. He then repeated the process to create a smaller ring that passed inside the first ring, but with the bowl of the goblet supported by the tailstock (see photo below left).
Bob started by mounting a blank of walnut between a 4 prong drive centre & a revolving tail centre to rough out the blank to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge. He then cut a tenon on one end with a parting tool, to fit the chuck.
Having remounted it in the chuck Bob then used a Simon Hope straight hollowing tool to remove the wood to create the inside of the bowl section. Next he used a 3/8" spindle gouge to shape the outside of the bowl, before moving onto a 1/4" spindle gouge to shape the transition to the stem.
To start creating the stem & ring, Bob used a parting tool to get the rough shape. He then used a ring tool to refine the shape of the ring, by scraping with the tool held at a downward angle, working in from both sides, until it is cut away from the stem. To sand the inside of the ring, Bob attaches a piece of glass paper around the stem, using a couple of elastic bands to hold it in place. He then repeated the process to create a smaller ring that passed inside the first ring, but with the bowl of the goblet supported by the tailstock (see photo below left).
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After the break Bob used a 3/8" spindle gouge to refine the shape of the stem, before shaping the the base of the goblet. He then applied a 50/50 mix of sanding sealer & thinners to seal the wood. Finally Bob parted it off & removed the nub (see photo below left).
Bob then mounted a blank of pine between a 4 prong drive centre & a revolving tail centre to rough out the blank to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge, to create the blank for making a snowman candle holder. He then cut a tenon on one end with a parting tool, to fit the chuck.
Having remounted the blank in the chuck, the first step is to use s Forstner bit to cut the recess for the tea light. Bob then marked the position of the hat, the brim & the head. Next using a skew chisel, initially like a parting tool, he removed the bulk of the wood to create the hat. Bob then used the skew in the traditional orientation to refine the hat, before moving on to shape the brim, head & body. Finally the snowman was sanded down & parted off (see photo below right).
Bob then mounted a blank of pine between a 4 prong drive centre & a revolving tail centre to rough out the blank to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge, to create the blank for making a snowman candle holder. He then cut a tenon on one end with a parting tool, to fit the chuck.
Having remounted the blank in the chuck, the first step is to use s Forstner bit to cut the recess for the tea light. Bob then marked the position of the hat, the brim & the head. Next using a skew chisel, initially like a parting tool, he removed the bulk of the wood to create the hat. Bob then used the skew in the traditional orientation to refine the hat, before moving on to shape the brim, head & body. Finally the snowman was sanded down & parted off (see photo below right).
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At our next meeting on 8th August, we will be joined by Adrian Jacobs from Woodbury Turners who will be giving us a demonstration on Ornamental Inlays.
June Club Meeting
Wednesday 13th June saw the second of our new style Self Help Club Nights, where some of the more experienced members shared their knowledge with those members were to wood turning. On the menu were the topics of Sharpening with Graham Tucker, Piercing with Mike Cotter, Hollowing with Val Venning, carving with Brian Marks & Spindle Turning with Pete Swain. The format of the evening enabled members to visit as many of the 'workshops' as they wanted to, asking questions, trying out tools & equipment they were thinking of getting & having a go if they were so inclined.
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A big thank you to all those members who led the evening's sessions & to all those members who enthusiastically absorbed their pearls of wisdom, the feedback from everyone was very positive. As a result, our September Self Help Club Night will have a different range of activities, with turning bowl, texturing, scroll sawing & pen making likely to be on the menu :)
Remember there is a club BBQ on 23rd June - see contact Val Venning if you're interested on waltervenning@btinternet.com or 01752 872442.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 11th July, with Bob Brinkworth from Plymouth Woodturners who will be showing us how to turn a goblet with a captive ring.
Remember there is a club BBQ on 23rd June - see contact Val Venning if you're interested on waltervenning@btinternet.com or 01752 872442.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 11th July, with Bob Brinkworth from Plymouth Woodturners who will be showing us how to turn a goblet with a captive ring.
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May Club Meeting
On Wednesday 9th May the club welcomed that John Rocky from Newton Abbot, who showed those present, how to turn a variety of bodies for clock mechanisms. The suppliers John uses for his mechanisms are Mega Quartz & Bude Time.
For his first clock John used a piece of Grevillea, mounting it between centres, he used a spindle roughing gouge to create a cylinder. Next John cut a dovetail shaped tenon on one end, to fit a small set of O'Donnell jaws. Having remounted the workpiece in the chuck, supported by a revolving centre in the tailstock, he then marked out the proportions of the base, stem, globe & finial sections. Using a parting tool John cut in at the bottom of the base, then switched to a spindle gouge to get the shape he was after for the globe, working from the tail stock towards the head stock. Next John sanded the globe with 120 grit abranet, moving onto 180 & 240 grit, then finally 320, 400 & 600 grit with the lathe running in reverse. Going back to the spindle gouge, John shaped the stem, which incorporated a bead (see middle left photo below). He then repeated the sanding process, as before. John then removed the tailstock & shaped a finial on the top of the globe, and finished shaping the base, before sanding as previously described. As clocks are looked at as opposed to handled, John finished it by using Yorkshire Grit at a speed of about 500rpm, before finally applying microcrystaline wax. To complete the turning process, John parted off the workpiece & then sanded the flat area for the front, using a velcro backed disc mounted on the headstock & a table mounted on the tool rest. John then marked the centre of the recess for the mechanism with a clear centre finder. The recess for the mechanism is created with a 1 & 5/8" Forstner bit, supported on padded 'V' blocks, John uses a pillar drill.
For his first clock John used a piece of Grevillea, mounting it between centres, he used a spindle roughing gouge to create a cylinder. Next John cut a dovetail shaped tenon on one end, to fit a small set of O'Donnell jaws. Having remounted the workpiece in the chuck, supported by a revolving centre in the tailstock, he then marked out the proportions of the base, stem, globe & finial sections. Using a parting tool John cut in at the bottom of the base, then switched to a spindle gouge to get the shape he was after for the globe, working from the tail stock towards the head stock. Next John sanded the globe with 120 grit abranet, moving onto 180 & 240 grit, then finally 320, 400 & 600 grit with the lathe running in reverse. Going back to the spindle gouge, John shaped the stem, which incorporated a bead (see middle left photo below). He then repeated the sanding process, as before. John then removed the tailstock & shaped a finial on the top of the globe, and finished shaping the base, before sanding as previously described. As clocks are looked at as opposed to handled, John finished it by using Yorkshire Grit at a speed of about 500rpm, before finally applying microcrystaline wax. To complete the turning process, John parted off the workpiece & then sanded the flat area for the front, using a velcro backed disc mounted on the headstock & a table mounted on the tool rest. John then marked the centre of the recess for the mechanism with a clear centre finder. The recess for the mechanism is created with a 1 & 5/8" Forstner bit, supported on padded 'V' blocks, John uses a pillar drill.
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After the break, John used a square piece of Oak, mounted on a faceplate ring, to turn a body to mount a 65mm mechanism. Having faced off the front with a spindle gouge, he then turned off the corners of the square blank with a bowl gouge, working from the faced off surface towards the chuck. The size & shape of the clock body were then refined from the side, before moving back to take a final facing cut across what will be the front of the clock.
Next John marked out the width of the mechanism (58mm) & the cut in to a depth of 20mm with a parting tool, before removing the rest of the wood from the recess with a bowl gouge. The final fitting of the mechanism to the recess was done with a parting tool. To decorate the front face John added a couple of beads, & then blended them together with a cushion in between (see middle right photo above). To finish the back John reverse mounted the workpiece, holding it in a set of engineering jaws. Having faced it off with a spindle gouge, he then turned a decorative groove, making a feature & removing the screw holes in one action. To finish, a small flat area is sanded to create a base.
Thank you John for an interesting demonstration, we now have a few ideas for turning clocks of our own. Our next session is on the 13th June, & we have a range of workshops you can get involved - spindle turning, sharpening, hollowing & piercing.
Next John marked out the width of the mechanism (58mm) & the cut in to a depth of 20mm with a parting tool, before removing the rest of the wood from the recess with a bowl gouge. The final fitting of the mechanism to the recess was done with a parting tool. To decorate the front face John added a couple of beads, & then blended them together with a cushion in between (see middle right photo above). To finish the back John reverse mounted the workpiece, holding it in a set of engineering jaws. Having faced it off with a spindle gouge, he then turned a decorative groove, making a feature & removing the screw holes in one action. To finish, a small flat area is sanded to create a base.
Thank you John for an interesting demonstration, we now have a few ideas for turning clocks of our own. Our next session is on the 13th June, & we have a range of workshops you can get involved - spindle turning, sharpening, hollowing & piercing.
April Club Meeting
On Wednesday 11th April 2018 the demonstration was given by Dave Appleby, who started by recommending that you ensure that your tool rest is pit free so that the tools slide smoothly across the rest.
The first item Dave demonstrated used half a log, to create a bowl emerging from the log, retaining the natural edge. Dave mounted the half log on a faceplate, then using a 5/8" bowl gouge (ground at 55 degrees) levelled off the end & shaped the outside of the bowl. To check that the board element was level, Dave used a steel rule. For the final cut he recommended using a smaller 3/8" bowl gouge, to achieve a better finish. He then turned a tenon, so it could be reversed & mounted in a chuck, using a set of O'Donnell jaws to work on the top & inside of the bowl. Dave then went back to his 5/8" bowl gouge to level off the top of the log, leaving the centre section slightly raised, to match the bottom of the bowl on the other side. Once the top was level & the correct bowl width was established, Dave then hollowed out the bowl, working from the outside towards the centre. Ideally, the thickness of the rim of the bowl should match the thickness of the board element of the log. The thickness of the bowl was checked using a set of callipers & refined to get a uniform thickness. Dave then used a round scraper, held at an angle, to remove the tool marks. To finish the base, the bowl can be reversed & the tenon refined as required (see photo below left).
The first item Dave demonstrated used half a log, to create a bowl emerging from the log, retaining the natural edge. Dave mounted the half log on a faceplate, then using a 5/8" bowl gouge (ground at 55 degrees) levelled off the end & shaped the outside of the bowl. To check that the board element was level, Dave used a steel rule. For the final cut he recommended using a smaller 3/8" bowl gouge, to achieve a better finish. He then turned a tenon, so it could be reversed & mounted in a chuck, using a set of O'Donnell jaws to work on the top & inside of the bowl. Dave then went back to his 5/8" bowl gouge to level off the top of the log, leaving the centre section slightly raised, to match the bottom of the bowl on the other side. Once the top was level & the correct bowl width was established, Dave then hollowed out the bowl, working from the outside towards the centre. Ideally, the thickness of the rim of the bowl should match the thickness of the board element of the log. The thickness of the bowl was checked using a set of callipers & refined to get a uniform thickness. Dave then used a round scraper, held at an angle, to remove the tool marks. To finish the base, the bowl can be reversed & the tenon refined as required (see photo below left).
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Next Dave showed how to make a body for a chunky 'Bic' pen, using a piece of rosewood. He started by mounting a long 4mm drill bit in the chuck & with a revolving centre in the tail stock, & drilled a blind hole, slightly deeper the pen 'cartridge'. Dave then mounted the the blank between a pen drive in the head stock & a pen mandrill in the tail stock, & shaped the pen blank using a spindle gouge (ground at 45 degrees). He then added some small beads using a homemade beading tool, made from a parting tool, & then burnt the lines between the beads. The pen blank was then ready to insert the 'Bic' pen 'Cartridge' (see middle photo above).
For his final project Dave used a piece of Beech, mounted between centres, to make a spoon/scoop. He began by roughing down the blank with a spindle roughing gouge, before using a parting tool to cut in at the intersection of the bowl & handle. Having marked the middle of the bowl section, Dave used a spindle gouge to create a sphere. To check & complete the shaping of the sphere he used a homemade 'scraper' made from a hole saw, with the teeth ground off, it is important that the diameter of the hole saw us smaller than the sphere that you are making. Dave then shaped the handle using a spindle gouge, before finishing it with a skew chisel. He then remounted the spoon blank using a set of wood jaws, shaped to hold the size of bowl of the spoon created, & then levelled off the sphere, before hollowing out the inside of the bowl with a 3/8" bowl gouge (see photo above right).
For his final project Dave used a piece of Beech, mounted between centres, to make a spoon/scoop. He began by roughing down the blank with a spindle roughing gouge, before using a parting tool to cut in at the intersection of the bowl & handle. Having marked the middle of the bowl section, Dave used a spindle gouge to create a sphere. To check & complete the shaping of the sphere he used a homemade 'scraper' made from a hole saw, with the teeth ground off, it is important that the diameter of the hole saw us smaller than the sphere that you are making. Dave then shaped the handle using a spindle gouge, before finishing it with a skew chisel. He then remounted the spoon blank using a set of wood jaws, shaped to hold the size of bowl of the spoon created, & then levelled off the sphere, before hollowing out the inside of the bowl with a 3/8" bowl gouge (see photo above right).
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Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 9th May with John Rockey a professional turner from Newton Abbot, who will be giving us a demonstration on turning small clocks.
March Club Meeting
Wednesday 14th March saw the first of our new style Self Help Club Nights, where some of the more experienced members shared their knowledge with those members were to wood turning. On the menu were the topics of Turning Tea Lights with Tony Machin, Pyrography with Mike Cotter, Finishing with Val Venning & Box Turning with Pete Swain. The format of the evening enabled members to visit as many of the 'workshops' as they wanted to, asking questions & having a go if they were so inclined.
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A big thank you to all those members who led the evening's sessions & to all those members who enthusiastically absorbed their pearls of wisdom, the feedback from everyone was very positive. As a result, our June Self Help Club Night will have a different range of activities, with turning hollow forms, tool sharpening, spindle turning & piercing likely to be on the menu :)
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 14th February, with Dave Appleby a professional woodturner from Somerset.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 14th February, with Dave Appleby a professional woodturner from Somerset.
February Club Meeting
On Wednesday 14th February the club hosted Roger Gubbins from Cornwall, who started by sharing his thoughts on sharpening the standard turning tools, before demonstrating how to turn owls.
Roger then started his demo by mounting his 'pine' blank between a pair of ring centres, & taking it from square to round with a spindle roughing drive. Next he made a chucking point with a parting tool & then remounted the blank in the chuck. Roger then removed the tailstock, marked the middle of the owl's head & then used a spindle gouge to shape one side of the head. He then used a parting tool to cut in near the to the chuck, then went back to the spindle gouge to shape the other side of the owl's head, before sanding off the high spots.
Roger then changed the chuck jaws to a set of wood jaws, made to hold a sphere, parted off the tenon & then completed the shaping of the sphere. He then used a cloth to apply some green spirit stain, before remounting it in the sphere holding wood jaws. Having put a Jacob's chuck in the tail stock he the drilled a 5mm hole into the sphere, & then used a spindle gouge to create the eye socket (see photo below middle).
Roger then started his demo by mounting his 'pine' blank between a pair of ring centres, & taking it from square to round with a spindle roughing drive. Next he made a chucking point with a parting tool & then remounted the blank in the chuck. Roger then removed the tailstock, marked the middle of the owl's head & then used a spindle gouge to shape one side of the head. He then used a parting tool to cut in near the to the chuck, then went back to the spindle gouge to shape the other side of the owl's head, before sanding off the high spots.
Roger then changed the chuck jaws to a set of wood jaws, made to hold a sphere, parted off the tenon & then completed the shaping of the sphere. He then used a cloth to apply some green spirit stain, before remounting it in the sphere holding wood jaws. Having put a Jacob's chuck in the tail stock he the drilled a 5mm hole into the sphere, & then used a spindle gouge to create the eye socket (see photo below middle).
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After the tea break Roger marked out the second eye, so that it overlapped the first one, then drilled & shaped the second eye socket - using a pair of dividers to ensure they were the same diameter.
Roger then mounted a piece of ebony in a set of O'Donnell jaws & roughed it down to a cylinder. He then shaped the eye with a spindle gouge, before using a parting tool to reduce the diameter of the spigot to 5mm, to match the hole drilled in the eye socket. The owl's head rests on a simple cylinder, with a hollow top (see photo above left).
Roger then mounted a piece of ebony in a set of O'Donnell jaws & roughed it down to a cylinder. He then shaped the eye with a spindle gouge, before using a parting tool to reduce the diameter of the spigot to 5mm, to match the hole drilled in the eye socket. The owl's head rests on a simple cylinder, with a hollow top (see photo above left).
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Roger then mounted a piece of beech between the ring centres & roughed it to a cylinder to make a spoon. Then he used a spindle gouge to shape a sphere, at the tail stock end, & shape the handle to the desired shape. He then put in another pair of wood jaws in the chuck to hold the spoon blank at an angle of approximately 70 degrees from the horizontal. With the tool rest carefully lined up, so as not to foul on the handle, Roger then used a round scraper to hollow out the bowl of the spoon.
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On Wednesday 14th March the monthly meeting will take the form of a self help session. A number of the more experienced club members will be helping some of the newer members with pyrography, finishing & box turning. This format proved a popular method of passing on knowledge & experience between members at the end of last year, so in 2018 we're organising all of our club nights along these lines, so if there's something you'd like help with then let Pete Whitfield know & he'll fit it into the club night programme.
January Club Meeting
The first meeting of the year saw a late change of demonstrator, with Tony Wingrave of Plymouth Woodturners, coming to the club's rescue. Tony went with the planned theme of off centred turning, but focussing on how to use this technique to turn birds of the feathered variety :)
Tony started with a piece of slightly curved branch wood, both mounted off centre between a 4 prong drive Centre & a revolving tail centre. He began by turning a 25mm spigot & then used a parting tool to take the ends of the blank down to circular, as reference points. Next he used a spindle gouge to shape profile of the bird's body, with the chest being a third of the way down, & the he blended the shape into the 2 reference points. Finally he squared off the tail stock end in preparation for mounting in a set of small gripper jaws.
With the blank mounted in the gripper jaws, Tony then put a carbide Forstner bit in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock & drilled a 15mm hole in the head end. He then used a nail in the Jacobs chuck to give some support, while he refined the outside of the socket for the head. Next Tony reduced the spigot down to 20mm using a bedan style parting tool, before parting it off next to the gripper jaws. This was then mounted on another piece of branch wood, with a 20mm hole drilled in the top, to represent a tree stump. Finally, using another piece of branch wood, held in the gripper jaws, Tony turned a pear shaped head & a spherical shaped head with a beak.
Tony recommends using a slower than normal speed when off centre turning, starting slowly & building up.
Tony started with a piece of slightly curved branch wood, both mounted off centre between a 4 prong drive Centre & a revolving tail centre. He began by turning a 25mm spigot & then used a parting tool to take the ends of the blank down to circular, as reference points. Next he used a spindle gouge to shape profile of the bird's body, with the chest being a third of the way down, & the he blended the shape into the 2 reference points. Finally he squared off the tail stock end in preparation for mounting in a set of small gripper jaws.
With the blank mounted in the gripper jaws, Tony then put a carbide Forstner bit in a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock & drilled a 15mm hole in the head end. He then used a nail in the Jacobs chuck to give some support, while he refined the outside of the socket for the head. Next Tony reduced the spigot down to 20mm using a bedan style parting tool, before parting it off next to the gripper jaws. This was then mounted on another piece of branch wood, with a 20mm hole drilled in the top, to represent a tree stump. Finally, using another piece of branch wood, held in the gripper jaws, Tony turned a pear shaped head & a spherical shaped head with a beak.
Tony recommends using a slower than normal speed when off centre turning, starting slowly & building up.
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After the tea break, Tony mounted another piece of branch wood, to make a fungi. This time on centre, between a 4 prong drive Centre & a revolving tail centre & cut a 25mm tenon. Next he shaped the top of the fungi using a spindle gouge, then leaving a natural edge, used a parting tool to cut in for the under side of the top. He then mounted the blank in the just 2 opposite gripper jaws, still supported by the tail centre, but moved off centre to match the other end in the chuck . Tony then started to remove the wood underneath the top, by working back towards the chuck, to establish the thickness of the stalk. He the shaped the first section of the stalk.
Tony then rotated the tenon in the chuck throughly 90 degrees, before shaping the next section of the stalk, making it slightly thicker than the first. This process was then repeated a number of times, although it doesn't matter which way you rotate the timber, as long as you ensure the stalk gets progressively thicker.
Once the roughing out of the stalk has been completed the final shape is achieved with the lathe turned off, using your hand tool of choice - surform, chisel, etc. - followed by sanding through the grits. Finally, once it has been sanded to the desired finish, the base is parted off.
Tony then rotated the tenon in the chuck throughly 90 degrees, before shaping the next section of the stalk, making it slightly thicker than the first. This process was then repeated a number of times, although it doesn't matter which way you rotate the timber, as long as you ensure the stalk gets progressively thicker.
Once the roughing out of the stalk has been completed the final shape is achieved with the lathe turned off, using your hand tool of choice - surform, chisel, etc. - followed by sanding through the grits. Finally, once it has been sanded to the desired finish, the base is parted off.
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A massive thanks to Tony for coming to the rescue & giving us such an unique insight into the potential of off centre turning.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 14th February, with Roger Gubbin a professional woodturner from Cornwall.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 14th February, with Roger Gubbin a professional woodturner from Cornwall.
December Club Meeting
On Wednesday 13th December 2017 the club's AGM was attended by approximately 15 members, with the usual reports provided by the club's officers, & the committee was returned for the forthcoming year. Thanks to the committee for all they do for the club's membership.
Details of the new style 'Club Nights' were shared with those present, where we will be having a 2 x 50 minutes sessions during which the club's more experienced members will be buddying up with the club's less experienced members to give 1:1 or 1:2 input, on those areas the less experienced members need help with. In 2018, these 'Club Night' sessions will be in March, June, September & December, so if there's something you would like to learn how to do/how to do it better, have a word with Pete W.
Following the AGM & tea break, members had a go at simple hollowing by turning Christmas bells & decorating the rim of bowls using a pyrography tool.
Anyone wanting to go to the New Year's supper on 19th January at Furzeleigh Mill needs to let Pete Swain know what you'd like to eat, by the January meeting at the latest.
Next year's calendar kicks off on 10th January with Alan Humphries who will be showing us his take on Off Centre Turning.
Details of the new style 'Club Nights' were shared with those present, where we will be having a 2 x 50 minutes sessions during which the club's more experienced members will be buddying up with the club's less experienced members to give 1:1 or 1:2 input, on those areas the less experienced members need help with. In 2018, these 'Club Night' sessions will be in March, June, September & December, so if there's something you would like to learn how to do/how to do it better, have a word with Pete W.
Following the AGM & tea break, members had a go at simple hollowing by turning Christmas bells & decorating the rim of bowls using a pyrography tool.
Anyone wanting to go to the New Year's supper on 19th January at Furzeleigh Mill needs to let Pete Swain know what you'd like to eat, by the January meeting at the latest.
Next year's calendar kicks off on 10th January with Alan Humphries who will be showing us his take on Off Centre Turning.
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November Club Meeting
On Wednesday 8th November the club welcomed back Colwin Way, a professional woodturner, tutor at Axminster Tools & regular contributor to Woodturning Magazine. Colwin shared his thoughts on suitable timber for wet turning, rough turning them for drying out, & methods of drying them out. Autumn is the best time of year to turn wet timber.
He then started by using a piece of Ash to turn a standard rough turned bowl. To start the blank was mounted on a faceplate ring, then having faced off the base of the bowl using a pull cut, he then shaped the foot to fit a pair of 'C' jaws. Colwin then rough shaped the outside of the bowl & remounted the blank in the 'C' jaws. He then used a push cut, working from the centre out, to rough hollow the inside of the bowl (see photos left & left centre below). The wall thickness of the bowl was left at about 30-40mm thick, as any less & it's liable to crack.
Next Colwin started to turn a natural edge bowl from a piece of Sycamore between a 4 prong (in the top) & revolving tail (in the base) centres. First he shaped the outside of the bowl, before shaping the foot to again fit the 'C' jaws. Next he hollowed out the centre of the bowl as before (see photo middle right below). To remove the pip in the bottom of the inside of the bowl, Colwin recommended wiggling the bowl gouge up & down until it is gone.
He then started by using a piece of Ash to turn a standard rough turned bowl. To start the blank was mounted on a faceplate ring, then having faced off the base of the bowl using a pull cut, he then shaped the foot to fit a pair of 'C' jaws. Colwin then rough shaped the outside of the bowl & remounted the blank in the 'C' jaws. He then used a push cut, working from the centre out, to rough hollow the inside of the bowl (see photos left & left centre below). The wall thickness of the bowl was left at about 30-40mm thick, as any less & it's liable to crack.
Next Colwin started to turn a natural edge bowl from a piece of Sycamore between a 4 prong (in the top) & revolving tail (in the base) centres. First he shaped the outside of the bowl, before shaping the foot to again fit the 'C' jaws. Next he hollowed out the centre of the bowl as before (see photo middle right below). To remove the pip in the bottom of the inside of the bowl, Colwin recommended wiggling the bowl gouge up & down until it is gone.
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After the tea break Colwin used a piece of Damson to create the third vessel of the evening. This was again mounted between centres, to turn a natural edged goblet, with the lathe back down to the slowest speed. He started by cutting a foot for the 'C' jaws, & then removed the bark next to the chucking point. Having remounted the blank in the 'C' jaws he first started to hollow out the centre of the goblet. Then shaped the outside of the top part of the goblet, leaving a natural edge next to the rim. Colwin then moved onto shaping the stem of the goblet, working back towards the base, before finally shaping the base &, before parting it off (see photo right above).
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Colwin gave a preview of a new skew chisel that he is working on with Crown, based on the German design of skew chisel, which is forged. This gives a tool that flares out towards the cutting edge, but also gets thinner towards the cutting edge (see photo middle right below).
Next Colwin used the tenon on a previously rough turned bowl, that had been allowed to dry out over a number of months, to remount an oak bowl. He then trued up the inside of the rim, so he could hold it on the outside face of the 'C' jaws. Then he mounted it so he could reshape the tenon & finish off the outside. Finally he then mounted it on the reshaped tenon & finished off the outside, which would then be sanded to the required finish (see photo left below).
The last bowl was turned from a branch of Laburnum, which was mounted between centres, to create an oval shaped bowl. First Colwin rough shaped the outside, before shaping the foot to grip in a set of dovetail jaws. He then remounted the blank in the dovetail jaws, supported by the tail stock, & then continued to shape the outside of the bowl. Colwin used a push cut for the finishing cut on the outside. Next Colwin removed the tailstock so he could begin to hollow out the centre of the bowl to half of the required depth, once again using a push cut starting in the middle, & working his way out towards the rim. Once the wall thickness was established, Colwin then removed the lower half of the inside of the bowl, finishing with a wiggle to remove the nib in the centre. Which was then parted it off (see photo middle left below). The solid parts of the bowl would be sanded on the lathe, but the wings sanded off the lathe with a Dremell style power sander.
Next Colwin used the tenon on a previously rough turned bowl, that had been allowed to dry out over a number of months, to remount an oak bowl. He then trued up the inside of the rim, so he could hold it on the outside face of the 'C' jaws. Then he mounted it so he could reshape the tenon & finish off the outside. Finally he then mounted it on the reshaped tenon & finished off the outside, which would then be sanded to the required finish (see photo left below).
The last bowl was turned from a branch of Laburnum, which was mounted between centres, to create an oval shaped bowl. First Colwin rough shaped the outside, before shaping the foot to grip in a set of dovetail jaws. He then remounted the blank in the dovetail jaws, supported by the tail stock, & then continued to shape the outside of the bowl. Colwin used a push cut for the finishing cut on the outside. Next Colwin removed the tailstock so he could begin to hollow out the centre of the bowl to half of the required depth, once again using a push cut starting in the middle, & working his way out towards the rim. Once the wall thickness was established, Colwin then removed the lower half of the inside of the bowl, finishing with a wiggle to remove the nib in the centre. Which was then parted it off (see photo middle left below). The solid parts of the bowl would be sanded on the lathe, but the wings sanded off the lathe with a Dremell style power sander.
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Colwin's final piece was a Christmas tree in Lime, although any timber with a close grain would be suitable. Holding the blank in the chuck, supported by the tail stock, he roughed out a cylinder. Next he shaped a cone, before using the heel of a skew chisel to roll the layers of tree every 10mm (see photo right above).
Once again an excellent demonstration, thanks Colwin, we now all need to get out & find some newly felled timber to experiment on.
The last meeting of the year will be on 13th December , starting with the AGM, followed by a hands on session with a theme of Christmas Trees, so you can get stuck in & have a go if you like.
Once again an excellent demonstration, thanks Colwin, we now all need to get out & find some newly felled timber to experiment on.
The last meeting of the year will be on 13th December , starting with the AGM, followed by a hands on session with a theme of Christmas Trees, so you can get stuck in & have a go if you like.
October Club Meeting
On Wednesday 11th October the monthly meeting once again took the form of a self help session, with a theme of Christmas Decorations. At times the hall resembled 'Santa's Grotto', as a busy band of 'Elves' toiled over the manufacture of a range of Christmas themed objects, including snowmen, Christmas trees, bells, mushrooms & rowlocks!!!
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Thanks to all of the more experienced club members, who shared their knowledge & experience with our newer members, I'm sure there will be a few more turned Christmas itmes as a result of the evening's activity :)
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 8th November with Colwin Way, a professional turner from Axminster, who will be giving us a demonstration on green turning.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 8th November with Colwin Way, a professional turner from Axminster, who will be giving us a demonstration on green turning.
September Club Meeting
On Wednesday 13th September those members present were joined by Mark Sanger, a professional woodturner from Dorset, who gave a demonstration on turning boxes.
Mark started with a piece of Holme Oak, which is a very hard & fine grained timber, which he took down to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge. He then cut a tenon on one end & mounted it in the chuck, & faced off the end with a bowl gouge. To tidy up the cylinder he used the wing of his bowl gouge, like a skew chisel, to make a planing cut. Next he marked out the intended design & used Formica to burn in the decoration on the end of the lid. Then Mark applied a homemade paste wax to reduce the airborne dust & fill the grain, & sanded the top to the desired finish. He then parted off the lid using a 2mm parting tool, using a relief cut & fishtailing the tool, making sure he left a register mark to aid fitting the lid later.
Then Mark hollowed out the inside of the box, starting with a spindle gouge to 'drill' a hole, then opened out further with a bowl gouge leaving the register mark as a future reference point. Mark then used a spindle gouge to shape the outside of the box to create a shallow cove, again finishing to 320 grit, using finishing paste. He then went back to the spindle gouge to fit the lid, before completing the hollowing out, working from the inside out. Mark prefers to have a round bottom on the inside of his boxes, so that it is easy to get this out of them. The final internal cut was made with a ring hollowing tool to achieve a fine finish.
The inside of the lid was finished using a range of grades of glasspaper, glued to pieces to plywood, & sanded in figure of eight pattern to ensure an even sanding of the area concerned.
Mark then parted the box off, using the side of the parting tool to scrape the base of the box, this was finished using a scrap block in the chuck with a sanding arbor mounted in it. Finally he applied Finishing Oil, which was buffed it using the Chestnut system, & then finished using 3 coats of microcrystalline wax, which is more robust than bees wax, which was also buffed. See photos of the finished Holme Oak Box below.
Mark started with a piece of Holme Oak, which is a very hard & fine grained timber, which he took down to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge. He then cut a tenon on one end & mounted it in the chuck, & faced off the end with a bowl gouge. To tidy up the cylinder he used the wing of his bowl gouge, like a skew chisel, to make a planing cut. Next he marked out the intended design & used Formica to burn in the decoration on the end of the lid. Then Mark applied a homemade paste wax to reduce the airborne dust & fill the grain, & sanded the top to the desired finish. He then parted off the lid using a 2mm parting tool, using a relief cut & fishtailing the tool, making sure he left a register mark to aid fitting the lid later.
Then Mark hollowed out the inside of the box, starting with a spindle gouge to 'drill' a hole, then opened out further with a bowl gouge leaving the register mark as a future reference point. Mark then used a spindle gouge to shape the outside of the box to create a shallow cove, again finishing to 320 grit, using finishing paste. He then went back to the spindle gouge to fit the lid, before completing the hollowing out, working from the inside out. Mark prefers to have a round bottom on the inside of his boxes, so that it is easy to get this out of them. The final internal cut was made with a ring hollowing tool to achieve a fine finish.
The inside of the lid was finished using a range of grades of glasspaper, glued to pieces to plywood, & sanded in figure of eight pattern to ensure an even sanding of the area concerned.
Mark then parted the box off, using the side of the parting tool to scrape the base of the box, this was finished using a scrap block in the chuck with a sanding arbor mounted in it. Finally he applied Finishing Oil, which was buffed it using the Chestnut system, & then finished using 3 coats of microcrystalline wax, which is more robust than bees wax, which was also buffed. See photos of the finished Holme Oak Box below.
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After the drinks break, Mark continued his demonstration using a piece of sycamore to make a Japanese Tea Box, as used in Japanese tea ceromonies. Having rouged down to a cylinder using a spindle roughing gouge, Mark added a tenon & mounted it in the chuck. He then used a peeling cut to level up the end using a skew chisel, before facing it off. Next he marked the lid, then hollowed it out as before. He then used a box scraper to create a parallel inside face, checking that it is parallel with a pair of internal callipers, before finishing the inside & bottom face of the lid with 240 grit.
Having parted off the lid, Mark then used vernier callipers to mark the diameter required on the top of the box, & then used a parting tool to fit the lid to the box. To ensure a tight fit, Mark tapered the joint & checked frequently, to avoid reducing it too far. For the final stage of fitting Mark used 180 grit & turned down the speed of the lathe. He then used the box, with a piece of kitchen roll, to act as a jam chuck to finish off the top of the lid with a skew chisel or spindle gouge. Mark emphasized the need to slow down as you move to the centre of your work, to avoid tear out. He then added detail, & put the lid to one side.
Next Mark hollowed out the box, as before, but ensuring there was a suitable wall thickness to accommodate the shoulder for the internal lid. He then finished the inside as before, & parting off the box. Mark then used the remaining blank to create a jam chuck to finish off the base of the box, he used a spindle gouge to face it off, as this pushes the box onto the jam chuck. Finally he added the decoration, using both a point tool & the toe of the skew chisel.
He then added decoration to the bottom of the inner lid, then fitted it to the box, & then sanded & finished as before. The inner lid was then parted off, then another jam chuck made from the remaining blank, so that the inner lid protruded. Mark then drilled a hole all the way through the jam chuck, so the inner lid can be removed, if it jams in the chuck. The inner lid was then placed in the jam chuck, faced off with a spindle gouge as before, & then a pip created so that the inner lid can be removed. Finally, Mark finished it so that both of the lids just float down onto the box. See photos of the finished Japanese Tea Box below.
Having parted off the lid, Mark then used vernier callipers to mark the diameter required on the top of the box, & then used a parting tool to fit the lid to the box. To ensure a tight fit, Mark tapered the joint & checked frequently, to avoid reducing it too far. For the final stage of fitting Mark used 180 grit & turned down the speed of the lathe. He then used the box, with a piece of kitchen roll, to act as a jam chuck to finish off the top of the lid with a skew chisel or spindle gouge. Mark emphasized the need to slow down as you move to the centre of your work, to avoid tear out. He then added detail, & put the lid to one side.
Next Mark hollowed out the box, as before, but ensuring there was a suitable wall thickness to accommodate the shoulder for the internal lid. He then finished the inside as before, & parting off the box. Mark then used the remaining blank to create a jam chuck to finish off the base of the box, he used a spindle gouge to face it off, as this pushes the box onto the jam chuck. Finally he added the decoration, using both a point tool & the toe of the skew chisel.
He then added decoration to the bottom of the inner lid, then fitted it to the box, & then sanded & finished as before. The inner lid was then parted off, then another jam chuck made from the remaining blank, so that the inner lid protruded. Mark then drilled a hole all the way through the jam chuck, so the inner lid can be removed, if it jams in the chuck. The inner lid was then placed in the jam chuck, faced off with a spindle gouge as before, & then a pip created so that the inner lid can be removed. Finally, Mark finished it so that both of the lids just float down onto the box. See photos of the finished Japanese Tea Box below.
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Mark's last project was an African Basket Box, made from another piece of sycamore. Having roughed it down to a cylinder, he then created a tenon & mounted it on the chuck. Next he marked out the proportions of the box, so that the lid was a quarter of the height, instead of the standard third. He then half parted off the lid, creating a second tenon on the box section. He then shaped the outside of the box & reduced the diameter of the lid to match, using a bowl gouge, before parting off the lid.
Mark then mounted the lid in the chuck, shaped the bottom of the lid, & then hollowed it out. Next he mounted the box on the chuck, hollowed it out with a spindle gouge & then fitted the lid. He then used the box as a jam chuck to mount the lid, using kitchen towel if necessary, & supported by a revolving tail centre. This allowed him to blend the shape of the lid to the box, initially with a spindle gouge & finally with a skew chisel. He then used a point tool to decorate the box & the lid, prior to using the Formica to blacken the bottom of the grooves. The base of the box was initially finished using the concave base of the sanding arbor as a friction drive, supported by a revolving tail centre, using a spindle gouge. The final stage of completing the base was achieved using the sanding arbor. See photos of the finished African Basket Box below.
Mark then mounted the lid in the chuck, shaped the bottom of the lid, & then hollowed it out. Next he mounted the box on the chuck, hollowed it out with a spindle gouge & then fitted the lid. He then used the box as a jam chuck to mount the lid, using kitchen towel if necessary, & supported by a revolving tail centre. This allowed him to blend the shape of the lid to the box, initially with a spindle gouge & finally with a skew chisel. He then used a point tool to decorate the box & the lid, prior to using the Formica to blacken the bottom of the grooves. The base of the box was initially finished using the concave base of the sanding arbor as a friction drive, supported by a revolving tail centre, using a spindle gouge. The final stage of completing the base was achieved using the sanding arbor. See photos of the finished African Basket Box below.
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Thank you Mark for your interesting demonstration, we now have plenty of ideas for making boxes. Our next session is on the 11th October, & we are going to have a hands on session with a theme of Christmas Decorations, so you can roll your sleeves up & have a go if you fancy it.
August Club Meeting
On Wednesday 9th August the monthly meeting took the form of a self help session. A number of the more experienced club members helped some of the newer members with activities such as bowl turning & turning acrylic. This format proved a popular method of passing on experience between members, & thanks from the newbies to those who generously passed on their experience :)
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The club is looking to expand the number of these sessions in next year's programme, as well as increase the range of activities on offer, with topics such bowl turning, spindle turning, tool sharpening, piercing, pyrography & ???
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 13th September, where Mark Sanger from Dorset will be giving us a demonstration on turning boxes.
Our demonstration next month is on Wednesday 13th September, where Mark Sanger from Dorset will be giving us a demonstration on turning boxes.
July Club Meeting
On Wednesday 12th July the club welcomed Alan Thomas, a professional woodturner from Cornwall, who provided a demonstration on the bowl turning & a range of methods of adding decorative textures.
For the demonstration, Alan had mounted a Sycamore bowl blank 8" x 3", by using a 2" Forstner bit to drill a recess for the chuck. This allowed him to rough the blank to shape, to get rid of the wax, & check for defects.
All of Alan's gouges are ground to the same angle, using a Robert Sorby jig, to make it easier & quicker to engage the gouges due to the familiarity of the grind angle.
Speed for roughing out, Alan suggested that the lathe should be running at less than 1000rpm, as the bowl will drop if you get a catch. Generally speaking, the faster the better.
When shaping the outside of the bowl work from the foot to the rim. He used a pull cut to face off the blank by leaning back, using the tip of the gouge, with the flute to at about 45 degrees. Then he trued up the side of the blank, starting with the flute closed, before opening the flute to at about 45 degrees & leaning with a push cut.
Alan then cut a 3mm chucking recess, as this gives a better grip than a tenon, initially using a parting tool - ground at the angle required for the jaws of the chuck. Then he used a spindle gouge to clean up the bottom of the chucking recess. Next a foot was added that was shallower than the chucking recess, with an undercut so the it doesn't rock.
To remove the timber to create the outside shape, Alan used a pull cut, this will leave a certain amount if tear out. He then used a push cut to get the final shape, as it's easier to see the shape as you go. Next, he closed the flute until it was nearly closed & used a pull cut to shear scrape for a good quality tool finish. Finally, Alan used a push cut, with the bevel rubbing to get an even better finish, which will require less sanding (see photo below left).
Prior to texturing, ensure you have achieved a high quality sanded finish, this will then contrast with the textured surfaces.
For the demonstration, Alan had mounted a Sycamore bowl blank 8" x 3", by using a 2" Forstner bit to drill a recess for the chuck. This allowed him to rough the blank to shape, to get rid of the wax, & check for defects.
All of Alan's gouges are ground to the same angle, using a Robert Sorby jig, to make it easier & quicker to engage the gouges due to the familiarity of the grind angle.
Speed for roughing out, Alan suggested that the lathe should be running at less than 1000rpm, as the bowl will drop if you get a catch. Generally speaking, the faster the better.
When shaping the outside of the bowl work from the foot to the rim. He used a pull cut to face off the blank by leaning back, using the tip of the gouge, with the flute to at about 45 degrees. Then he trued up the side of the blank, starting with the flute closed, before opening the flute to at about 45 degrees & leaning with a push cut.
Alan then cut a 3mm chucking recess, as this gives a better grip than a tenon, initially using a parting tool - ground at the angle required for the jaws of the chuck. Then he used a spindle gouge to clean up the bottom of the chucking recess. Next a foot was added that was shallower than the chucking recess, with an undercut so the it doesn't rock.
To remove the timber to create the outside shape, Alan used a pull cut, this will leave a certain amount if tear out. He then used a push cut to get the final shape, as it's easier to see the shape as you go. Next, he closed the flute until it was nearly closed & used a pull cut to shear scrape for a good quality tool finish. Finally, Alan used a push cut, with the bevel rubbing to get an even better finish, which will require less sanding (see photo below left).
Prior to texturing, ensure you have achieved a high quality sanded finish, this will then contrast with the textured surfaces.
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After the refreshments break, Alan demonstrated an inexpensive texturing solution, he used a 4" angle grinder with an 80 grit disc, to add a random textured pattern to outside surface (see photos above centre & right).
Then Alan remounted the blank on the previously turned chucking recess, to turn the inside of the bowl. Starting with a pull/draw cut to face off the top of the bowl, Alan then used the angle grinder to texture the rim of the bowl. The inside of the bowl could then be cut out of the centre, to leave the textured rim to the bowl (as can be seen on the bowl in the photo below right).
Next Alan used an Axminster piercing tool, with a flexi drive & an 'Elf' style cutter, to add a different texture to the rim. However, this type of cutter does tend to tear the timber, which then requires a degree of sanding to remove the scraggy edges.
With regard to colouring, Alan recommends using blues & purples, & either 1 or 2 different colours, so as not to over embellish the work piece.
Another method of adding texture that Alan demonstrated was to use a knurling wheel to decorate the rim. Chronos supply pairs of knurling wheels for about £8, which can be mounted on a piece if bar stock to create a type of chatter tool. This then needs only a light sanding, & then a spirit pen can be used to add colour over the chatter marks (see photo below left).
When hollowing out the bowl, Alan recommended establishing the wall thickness first, to stabilise the rim thickness & provide a shoulder to prevent 'skip out'. He then showed 2 methods of removing the centre of the bowl. The first is to work from the centre out, initially using a parting tool to create a shoulder, & then using a bowl gouge to remove the timber. The second was to use the bowl gouge with the flute closed, to establish a shoulder, before opening the flute to about 45 degrees as the cut progresses.
Alan discussed honing the edge of the tools & explained how it is a waste if time, so more time can be spent turning :)
Finally, Alan showed how adding decoration to the centre of the inside of the bowl, or the inside of the lid of a box, will add interest to the item ( see photo below centre).
Thanks to Alan for an entertaining & informative evening, we now have lots of techniques we can try out on our own turning projects.
Next month, on the 9th August, we are going to have a hands on session, so you can roll your sleeves up & get stuck in if you want to.
Then Alan remounted the blank on the previously turned chucking recess, to turn the inside of the bowl. Starting with a pull/draw cut to face off the top of the bowl, Alan then used the angle grinder to texture the rim of the bowl. The inside of the bowl could then be cut out of the centre, to leave the textured rim to the bowl (as can be seen on the bowl in the photo below right).
Next Alan used an Axminster piercing tool, with a flexi drive & an 'Elf' style cutter, to add a different texture to the rim. However, this type of cutter does tend to tear the timber, which then requires a degree of sanding to remove the scraggy edges.
With regard to colouring, Alan recommends using blues & purples, & either 1 or 2 different colours, so as not to over embellish the work piece.
Another method of adding texture that Alan demonstrated was to use a knurling wheel to decorate the rim. Chronos supply pairs of knurling wheels for about £8, which can be mounted on a piece if bar stock to create a type of chatter tool. This then needs only a light sanding, & then a spirit pen can be used to add colour over the chatter marks (see photo below left).
When hollowing out the bowl, Alan recommended establishing the wall thickness first, to stabilise the rim thickness & provide a shoulder to prevent 'skip out'. He then showed 2 methods of removing the centre of the bowl. The first is to work from the centre out, initially using a parting tool to create a shoulder, & then using a bowl gouge to remove the timber. The second was to use the bowl gouge with the flute closed, to establish a shoulder, before opening the flute to about 45 degrees as the cut progresses.
Alan discussed honing the edge of the tools & explained how it is a waste if time, so more time can be spent turning :)
Finally, Alan showed how adding decoration to the centre of the inside of the bowl, or the inside of the lid of a box, will add interest to the item ( see photo below centre).
Thanks to Alan for an entertaining & informative evening, we now have lots of techniques we can try out on our own turning projects.
Next month, on the 9th August, we are going to have a hands on session, so you can roll your sleeves up & get stuck in if you want to.
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Club BBQ
On Saturday 8th of July, members of the club enjoyed a BBQ, hosted by our Chairman Val Venning.
Thanks to Val & Jean for a wonderful spread, & to their friends who slaved over the BBQ's on one if the hottest days if the year so far!
In beautiful Devon weather, as it approached mid afternoon, the shelter provided by Val's marquee was much appreciated :)
Once again thanks to Val & Jean for hosting an excellent club social, with great company, lovey food & smashing weather, I'm sure everyone's looking forward to the next one.
Thanks to Val & Jean for a wonderful spread, & to their friends who slaved over the BBQ's on one if the hottest days if the year so far!
In beautiful Devon weather, as it approached mid afternoon, the shelter provided by Val's marquee was much appreciated :)
Once again thanks to Val & Jean for hosting an excellent club social, with great company, lovey food & smashing weather, I'm sure everyone's looking forward to the next one.
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June Club Meeting
Turning flowers by Eric Underwood.
For the first half of the evening Eric gave a demonstration of a variety of methods of turning flowers. He started by using a parting tool to peel back a number of layers of hazel (aka 'nutwood') to create the style of flower shown in the photo's below (left & left of centre), which are then coloured using either food colouring or acrylic paint.
Then Eric demonstrated how to turn a different style of flower, using a technique similar to that used to turn a goblet, in Yew. First he hollowed out the top of the flower, before shaping the outside flower, both with a spindle gouge. Eric then drilled a hole in the centre of the flower, before parting it off, prior to fixing it to a willow stem (see photos below centre right & right.
Thanks to Eric for an interesting couple of mini demos, I'm sure that quite a few flowers have been blooming this week :)
For the first half of the evening Eric gave a demonstration of a variety of methods of turning flowers. He started by using a parting tool to peel back a number of layers of hazel (aka 'nutwood') to create the style of flower shown in the photo's below (left & left of centre), which are then coloured using either food colouring or acrylic paint.
Then Eric demonstrated how to turn a different style of flower, using a technique similar to that used to turn a goblet, in Yew. First he hollowed out the top of the flower, before shaping the outside flower, both with a spindle gouge. Eric then drilled a hole in the centre of the flower, before parting it off, prior to fixing it to a willow stem (see photos below centre right & right.
Thanks to Eric for an interesting couple of mini demos, I'm sure that quite a few flowers have been blooming this week :)
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Piercing by Mike Cotter.
In preparation, Mike had turned a couple of turned the sycamore vessels with a wall thickness of approximately 2 to 3mm. With the vessel still on the lathe, Mike then drew the desired pattern onto the vessel. Prior to demonstrating how to pierce the vessel, Mike shared the benefit of his experience with regard to suitable types of piercing tool, the costs involved & the top tip of getting your piercing bits off ebay in the form of Dentists bits from china- which are a cheap source of good quality bits!!!
The piercing tool that Mike uses runs at 30,000rpm & has a 0.3 horsepower motor, which will allow extended use without fear of burning it out, which can happen with smaller multi-tools. Mike emphasized that you should aim to keep the webs the same thickness, & cut random shaped holes, as it is the web that is seen rather than the holes. Following the demonstration, Mike then oversaw a number of club members making their first attempt at piercing a vessel (see photos below left & left of centre), although I suspect that it won't be their last :)
Thanks to Mike for a great 'hands on' session, & for bringing along a range of products in which he has combined piercing with his turning.
In preparation, Mike had turned a couple of turned the sycamore vessels with a wall thickness of approximately 2 to 3mm. With the vessel still on the lathe, Mike then drew the desired pattern onto the vessel. Prior to demonstrating how to pierce the vessel, Mike shared the benefit of his experience with regard to suitable types of piercing tool, the costs involved & the top tip of getting your piercing bits off ebay in the form of Dentists bits from china- which are a cheap source of good quality bits!!!
The piercing tool that Mike uses runs at 30,000rpm & has a 0.3 horsepower motor, which will allow extended use without fear of burning it out, which can happen with smaller multi-tools. Mike emphasized that you should aim to keep the webs the same thickness, & cut random shaped holes, as it is the web that is seen rather than the holes. Following the demonstration, Mike then oversaw a number of club members making their first attempt at piercing a vessel (see photos below left & left of centre), although I suspect that it won't be their last :)
Thanks to Mike for a great 'hands on' session, & for bringing along a range of products in which he has combined piercing with his turning.
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Next month, on the 12th July, we have Allan Thomas a professional woodturner from Cornwall joining us - see you then.
May Club Meeting
This month our visiting turner was Rex Penhallurick from Plymouth Woodturners Club who gave a demonstration on turning an offset goblet.
Rex advocated using a version of a worm screw (see left photo below) to hold the Mahogany spindle blank in the chuck. He started by shaping the outside of the bowl of the goblet, initially with a spindle roughing gouge, before moving onto his spindle gouge to create the final shape required. Next Rex hollowed out the inside of the bowl, using a combination of his spindle gouge & Simon Hope hollowing tool. He then sanded the inside & outside of the bowl & finished it with friction polish & carnauba wax.
To turn the offset part of the stem, Rex moved the spindle blank to the offset mounting hole in the end of the blank, which was 1/4" off centre. He removed the bulk of the wood with a spindle roughing gouge, then moved onto his spindle gouge to create the final profile. Rex then sanded this section & again finished with friction polish & carnauba wax (see middle photo below).
Rex advocated using a version of a worm screw (see left photo below) to hold the Mahogany spindle blank in the chuck. He started by shaping the outside of the bowl of the goblet, initially with a spindle roughing gouge, before moving onto his spindle gouge to create the final shape required. Next Rex hollowed out the inside of the bowl, using a combination of his spindle gouge & Simon Hope hollowing tool. He then sanded the inside & outside of the bowl & finished it with friction polish & carnauba wax.
To turn the offset part of the stem, Rex moved the spindle blank to the offset mounting hole in the end of the blank, which was 1/4" off centre. He removed the bulk of the wood with a spindle roughing gouge, then moved onto his spindle gouge to create the final profile. Rex then sanded this section & again finished with friction polish & carnauba wax (see middle photo below).
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After the break for refreshments, Rex resumed by re-centring the spindle blank, so he could complete the base of the goblet. So it was back to the spindle roughing gouge to remove the bulk of the wood, before returning to the spindle gouge to create the final shape of the base. As before Rex sanded the base, before finishing with friction polish & carnauba wax. To remove the goblet from the blank Rex started with a parting tool, then once again the legendary Lidl Japanese saw made it's appearance to detach the goblet, the base then being finished by removing the nub with a gouge & then sanded (see right photo above of the finished goblet).
Rex then used a set of gripper jaws to demonstrate an alternative method of offsetting, by turning a second goblet in London Plane (see left & middle photos below).
Rex brought along a selection of off centre goblets made from a variety of timbers, with a variety of finishes ( see right photo below).
Thanks to Rex for an entertaining & informative evening, it will be interesting to see how we can apply what Rex showed us into our own turning projects.
Next month, on the 14th June, we have a change to the published programme. Instead of a demonstration, we are going to have some mini demonstrations & a hands on session, so be prepared to roll your sleeves up & get stuck in!!!
Rex then used a set of gripper jaws to demonstrate an alternative method of offsetting, by turning a second goblet in London Plane (see left & middle photos below).
Rex brought along a selection of off centre goblets made from a variety of timbers, with a variety of finishes ( see right photo below).
Thanks to Rex for an entertaining & informative evening, it will be interesting to see how we can apply what Rex showed us into our own turning projects.
Next month, on the 14th June, we have a change to the published programme. Instead of a demonstration, we are going to have some mini demonstrations & a hands on session, so be prepared to roll your sleeves up & get stuck in!!!
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April Club Meeting
On Wednesday 12th April the club welcomed Tony Bennet from Woodbury Woodturners who provided a demonstration on how to turn pepper & salt mills, using both Crush Grind & traditional mechanisms.
Tony started turning between a steb centre, held in a chuck, & a revolving ring centre in the tail stock to rough the Ash blank from square to cylindrical. He then faced off one end & sized the tenon to grip in the chuck. Tony prefers to use Nova chucks, as the jaws don't protrude beyond the body of the chuck, therefore not endangering his knuckles. Having gripped the tenon in the chuck, Tony proceeded to part off the blank to the required length, making the final separation with the famous Lidl £10 Japanese saw, & then marking the joint between the body & the lid. He then used an oval skew to tidy up the blank, & then squared off the end.
The first stage of drilling out the centre of the body was to drill to a depth of 19mm with a 45mm Forstner drill bit. To stop the Jacob's chuck from rotating Tony used a bar inserted into the chuck key hole, which then rests on the tool rest. Then he used a 38mm Forstner drill bit, drilling to a a further 54mm. Whilst drilling Tony lubricated his drill bits with wax polish to reduce the build up of heat.
Tony started turning between a steb centre, held in a chuck, & a revolving ring centre in the tail stock to rough the Ash blank from square to cylindrical. He then faced off one end & sized the tenon to grip in the chuck. Tony prefers to use Nova chucks, as the jaws don't protrude beyond the body of the chuck, therefore not endangering his knuckles. Having gripped the tenon in the chuck, Tony proceeded to part off the blank to the required length, making the final separation with the famous Lidl £10 Japanese saw, & then marking the joint between the body & the lid. He then used an oval skew to tidy up the blank, & then squared off the end.
The first stage of drilling out the centre of the body was to drill to a depth of 19mm with a 45mm Forstner drill bit. To stop the Jacob's chuck from rotating Tony used a bar inserted into the chuck key hole, which then rests on the tool rest. Then he used a 38mm Forstner drill bit, drilling to a a further 54mm. Whilst drilling Tony lubricated his drill bits with wax polish to reduce the build up of heat.
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Tony then used a modified parting tool, ground into a scraper, specifically ground to create the recess for the pop out gripping lugs on the Crush Grind mechanism. Next Tony finished drilling out the body & into the lid, with a 25mm Forstner drill bit.
He then parted off the lid from the body, creating a protrusion to locate the lid to the body with. He then remounted it in the chuck & continued drilling with the 25mm Forstner drill bit, to fit the mechanism into the lid.
Tony then created a recess in the lid for the protrusion on the body to fit into. Next he mounted the body between the lid & a 45mm spacer, fitted onto the end of a revolving centre, to shape the exterior of the pepper mill, initially with a roughing gouge. To achieve the final shape of the exterior of the mills, & achieve a better quality finish, Tony switched back to his oval skew chisel. To complete the lid, Tony uses pin jaws to hold it while he shapes the top face. The mills are finally finished with either sanding sealer, Tung oil 50/50 with thinners, Lemon oil or food safe oil.
He then parted off the lid from the body, creating a protrusion to locate the lid to the body with. He then remounted it in the chuck & continued drilling with the 25mm Forstner drill bit, to fit the mechanism into the lid.
Tony then created a recess in the lid for the protrusion on the body to fit into. Next he mounted the body between the lid & a 45mm spacer, fitted onto the end of a revolving centre, to shape the exterior of the pepper mill, initially with a roughing gouge. To achieve the final shape of the exterior of the mills, & achieve a better quality finish, Tony switched back to his oval skew chisel. To complete the lid, Tony uses pin jaws to hold it while he shapes the top face. The mills are finally finished with either sanding sealer, Tung oil 50/50 with thinners, Lemon oil or food safe oil.
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After the break, Tony then moved on to demonstrate how to make a traditional salt/pepper mill by repeating the processes up to the drilling phase. Here as well as the sizes differing, an additional hole is drilled all the way through the lid, for the shaft to protrude for the 'S' or 'P' nut to fit to secure the lid. Tony then finished off as before, with the exception of leaving a protruding ring, so that the base can be held in the chuck, whilst the lid is held in the revolving centre. The protruding ring is removed once the outside is finished.
For sanding Tony shared his Flip Flop sanding pad, with adhesive Velcro at each end & a different adhesive pad on each end. He also had a display of some of his other work, see photos above.
In May we have a demonstration by Rex Penhaldrick from Plymouth Woodturning Club, on of Offset Turning.
For sanding Tony shared his Flip Flop sanding pad, with adhesive Velcro at each end & a different adhesive pad on each end. He also had a display of some of his other work, see photos above.
In May we have a demonstration by Rex Penhaldrick from Plymouth Woodturning Club, on of Offset Turning.
March Club Meeting
On Wednesday 8th March our guest wood turner was Roger Gubbin, from Cornwall, who gave a demonstration on turning, colouring & finishing fruit in Yew. Roger started by using a pair of matched cone drives to rough out & faced off the blank to fit chuck. He then held the blank in the chuck to shape & sand base of the apple, and then shaped & sanded the bottom half. Roger then used a modified light pull drive & a revolving centre to shape, then sand the top half of the apple, blending it into the bottom half. He then removed the revolving centre & carefully shaped & sanded the top to shape. When preparing the apple for colouring & finishing, Roger used a couple of different grades of sand paper, before moving onto Abranet, then finishing with Nyweb abrasive pad.
Once the sanding process was complete Roger used an air brush to colour the apple using a number of different colours of spirit stain, to achieve the desired effect. He then spun the wood on the lathe in order speed up the process of drying the stain. Next he burnt the bottom of the apple with a pyrography tool, to create the effect of the remnants of leaves. Roger then started the finishing process with a light application of a spray on acrylic sealer, which should be left for 24hours. However, 5 minutes had to suffice & he then buffed it up with a Nyweb buffing pad. The next stage was to apply a coat of self levelling car lacquer, which should also be left to dry for 24 hours. But again 5 minutes had to do, before Roger moved on to the final stage which was to buff the apple on a polishing mop, at a speed that allows the mop to be flexible, & no polishing compound was needed due to the lacquer finish.
Once the sanding process was complete Roger used an air brush to colour the apple using a number of different colours of spirit stain, to achieve the desired effect. He then spun the wood on the lathe in order speed up the process of drying the stain. Next he burnt the bottom of the apple with a pyrography tool, to create the effect of the remnants of leaves. Roger then started the finishing process with a light application of a spray on acrylic sealer, which should be left for 24hours. However, 5 minutes had to suffice & he then buffed it up with a Nyweb buffing pad. The next stage was to apply a coat of self levelling car lacquer, which should also be left to dry for 24 hours. But again 5 minutes had to do, before Roger moved on to the final stage which was to buff the apple on a polishing mop, at a speed that allows the mop to be flexible, & no polishing compound was needed due to the lacquer finish.
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To complete the apple Roger used a set of pin jaws with a 10mm x 10mm x 100mm blank to make the stalk. After roughing it cylindrical, he used a skew chisel to taper the stalk down to size of a 2.5mm drill bit. Prior to parting it off he returned to his pyrography tool to decorate the stalk. Finally he drilled into the top of the apple with the 2.5mm drill & then inserted the stalk.
A very informative demonstration was delivered with Roger's unique Cornish charm & wit, which was enjoyed by all. Roger also had a display of some of his other work, see photos below.
It was good to see a couple of new faces, we hope that they enjoyed the evening & look forward to seeing them at the next meeting. In April we will have the pleasure of a demonstration from Tony Bennett of Woodbury Turners.
A very informative demonstration was delivered with Roger's unique Cornish charm & wit, which was enjoyed by all. Roger also had a display of some of his other work, see photos below.
It was good to see a couple of new faces, we hope that they enjoyed the evening & look forward to seeing them at the next meeting. In April we will have the pleasure of a demonstration from Tony Bennett of Woodbury Turners.
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February Club Meeting:
On Wednesday 8th February the club welcomed Stephen Long from Woodbury Woodturners who provided a demonstration on the production of a range of spindle turned products. Stephen started with a two part paper knife, the blade of which was initially turned, but then finished using the sanding discs shown below. The paper knife was then finished initially with sanding sealer, followed by a wax polish. He then progressed to show how he makes a small scoop, using a reground drill bit to create the internal shape of the scoop. Following the refreshment break, Stephen produced a honey drizzler, which like the scoop, he finishes using food safe oil. For his final piece Stephen produced a couple of door wedges from a single blank, turning a decorative feature on each end, before cutting the centre section diagonally to release the two wedges. These were finished using sanding sealer & a wax polish.
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In addition to demonstrating how he created the items detailed above, Stephen also shared with those present, how he used both commercially available drives (Steb Centre) and homemade drives. The photos below left & centre show the drives Stephen has made for turning the handles of his paper knives & scoops. While the photo below right shows the fitting he has made to attach his sanding discs to his O'Donnell jaws.
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Thanks to Stephen for his informative demonstration, we now have lots of ideas for presents or craft show products to keep us busy. Next month we have the pleasure of Roger Gubbin, a professional woodturner from across the border in Kerno.
New Year's Supper:
On Friday 20th January 2017, a group of club members joined together to belatedly see in the New Year with a meal at Furzeleigh Mill, Buckfastleigh, Ashburton. Good food, company & conversation ensured that, once again, the evening was great success. Same time, same place next year ?
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January Club Meeting:
On Wednesday 11th January 2017, the club's first meeting on the new year, the members given a very interesting demonstration on a variety of finishing techniques by Eric Anning from Plymouth Woodturning Club. Eric started, by scorching the outside of an Ash bowl with his blow torch. He then brushed it down, gave it a coat of finishing oil, rubbed in some gold gild, before finishing it off with another coat of finishing oil (see photo's below). Eric then demonstrated how to use texturing & point tools to produce a decorative band on the top rim of the bowl, before finishing it with a coat of sanding sealer, followed by rubbing gold gild into the textured area.
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After the break Eric continued working on a Beech bowl he'd previously prepared by dribbling hot glue over the outside, spray painting it black, before removing the hot glue, lightly sanding it down & finally applying a couple of coats of lacquer (see far left hand photo below). The top of the bowl was then finished by adding a band around the rim, which was then sealed, before being decorated with spirit based dyes, then finished with coats of acrylic lacquer. Once dry, the areas either side of the band will be removed to leave the slightly raised decorative band.
Eric then continued working on an Oak bowl he'd started, by creating a band on the outside of the bowl & then using a power carver to create a contrasing texture in alternate 1/8's around the band (see middle right hand photo below). Next the an eccentric pattern was added to the top rim of the bowl, with a point tool & the creative use of the O'Donnell jaws, this was finished using sanding sealer, followed by liming wax (allpied using a toothbrush & scotch pad. Once dry, this will be cleaned up with finishing oil, prior to the bowl being cared out.
Eric then continued working on an Oak bowl he'd started, by creating a band on the outside of the bowl & then using a power carver to create a contrasing texture in alternate 1/8's around the band (see middle right hand photo below). Next the an eccentric pattern was added to the top rim of the bowl, with a point tool & the creative use of the O'Donnell jaws, this was finished using sanding sealer, followed by liming wax (allpied using a toothbrush & scotch pad. Once dry, this will be cleaned up with finishing oil, prior to the bowl being cared out.
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Thanks to Eric for an inspiring & informative evening to get 2017 going. Next month we have Stephen Long from Woodbury Turners, who will be giving us some ideas for paper knives & scoops.
December Club Meeting:
On Wednesday 14th December 2016 the club's AGM was attended by approximately 20 members, with the usual reports provided by the club's officers, & then a committee voted in for the coming year. Thanks to the committee for all they do for the club's membership.
After the formal business of the AGM had been concluded, Val Venning gave a presentation on the manufacture of his home made vacuum chuck. This was followed by a demonstration of various applications for it, which included: reverse chucking to turn down/reshape the foot/tenon on the bottom of the bowl & roughing out a bowl blank. Val estimated that the whole system cost less than £100, a fraction of cost of a commercially produced system.
After the formal business of the AGM had been concluded, Val Venning gave a presentation on the manufacture of his home made vacuum chuck. This was followed by a demonstration of various applications for it, which included: reverse chucking to turn down/reshape the foot/tenon on the bottom of the bowl & roughing out a bowl blank. Val estimated that the whole system cost less than £100, a fraction of cost of a commercially produced system.
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